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While downtown, stroll the aerial walkway over to Mud Island, a small raft of land in the middle of the great, brown Mississippi. It’s all about scale models here - wade through a five-block long topographic replica of the lower Mississippi, paddle around in a 1-acre enclosed “Gulf of Mexico,” stroll the deck of a model 19th-century packet boat in the museum. When you’re done, take the monorail back and snap some pictures of the city skyline, including the 32-story silver Pyramid Arena on the waterfront.

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“Great barbecue is cooked low and slow. The meat should appear pink to red down to the arm bone. It should be pulled, not chopped - this is when the meat is hand pulled and served without ever taking a knife to the meat. And there should be a crust on the meat. That’s where the cook applies a glaze and cooks further to form a tasty bark.”

Mary Horner, judge, Memphis in May Barbecue Cooking Competition

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If you’re headed to Graceland, about 8 miles south of downtown, there are two barbecue joints worth a stop along the way (they’re worth a stop even if you’re not headed to Graceland, for that matter). Jim Neely’s Interstate Bar-B-Que is a classic, run by ex-insurance agent Jim Neely in an old grocery store since 1979. This is the place to try a Memphis-only oddity - barbecue spaghetti. It’s exactly what it sounds like - chopped spaghetti, cooked to near-mush, mixed with pulled pork in a smoky barbecue sauce. Though reminiscent of an elementary school cafeteria “lunch special,” it’s strangely tasty. But if that’s not your speed, the pulled-pork sandwiches, with crunchy bits of well-done outer meat mixed with soft, tender white meat, are tops. Payne’s Bar-B-Q, in an old storefront up the street from Graceland, is the place to stop for a sandwich when on the trail of the King. Order a sloppy sandwich at the scuffed counter and listen to locals shooting the breeze.

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About 40 miles across the Mississippi state line, the town of Tunica (www.tunicamiss.com) has styled itself as a Southern Las Vegas. Even if blackjack’s not your thing, the glittery casinos host some marquee-name Southern acts like Merle Haggard, Gladys Knight and BB King. Make a night of it with dinner at the Paula Deen Buffet at Harrah’s Casino.

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Is there anything more indulgent than getting an order of ribs and a slice of pie to go and taking it back to your hotel, to consume sitting cross-legged on top of the bedspread while watching HBO? Do it at the Talbot Heirs, where studio suites have kitchen tables, and fridges for leftovers. The tiny brownstone hotel has an offbeat charm, with brightly painted contemporary rooms. Best of all, it’s within walking distance of the downtown eats.

Emily Matchar

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Nashville, take I-40 W about 200 miles, take exit 10B, then exit 1A onto Second St.

EAT

Arcade

Memphis’s oldest restaurant does diner-style eggs, sandwiches and salad, in a retro setting. 901-526-5757; www.arcaderestaurant.com; 540 S Main St, Memphis; mains $6-8; 7am-3pm, dinner on Fri;

Bryant’s Bar-B-Q & Breakfast

Lines snake out the door on Saturday morning - load up on grits and country ham. 901-324-7494; www.bryantsbreakfast.com; 3965 Summer Ave, Memphis; mains $2-9; 5am-1pm Mon-Sat;

Central BBQ

Come for the hefty racks of ribs, stay for the teeth-achingly sweet Southern desserts. 901-767-4672; www.cbqmemphis.com; 4375 Summer Ave, Memphis; mains $4-22; 11am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat;

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous

Dry-rubbed ribs are the thing at this always-crowded subterranean institution. 901-523-2746; www.hogsfly.com; in alley off Second St btw Union & Monroe, Memphis; mains $7-18; 4:30pm-10:30pm Tue-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat

Cozy Corner

Order the barbecued Cornish game hen at this no-frills spot. 901-527-9158; 745 N Parkway, Memphis; mains $5-16; 10:30am-5pm Tue-Sat, later in summer;

Dyer’s

“Triple with cheese” is exactly what you need