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By Root 623 0

Bess bought the joint, then called Mom’s, in 1960 and began a long career of nurturing up-and-coming country stars like Waylon Jennings and Faron Young, calling them her “chill’un” and letting them pay for their beer in IOUs. The walls of the theatrically grimy dive are paved with old photographs and handbills from the glory days of the Nashville Sound, but the music on Tootsie’s two stages is as fresh as ever.

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The 444-mile scenic Natchez Trace Parkway starts about 25 miles southwest of Nashville, just off Hwy 100. Drive under a canopy of hickory trees as you wind your way through the sun-dappled limestone hills. Originally a footpath for Ohio River boatmen returning home after delivering goods to Natchez, Mississippi, the Trace passes through old Choctaw and Chickasaw territory. There are three campsites (no cost) along the way, as well as a number of bike and hiking trails.

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Emily Matchar

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Memphis, take I-40 E for about 200 miles, exiting at 86 B onto I-24 E towards Chattanooga. Take exit 48 towards State Capital.

DO

Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum

This shrine to the most American of musical genres was designed to look like a piano. 615-416-2001; www.countrymusichalloffame.com; 222 5th Ave S, Nashville; adult/child $18/10; 9am-5pm

Elder’s Bookstore

Find books on Southern history and more at this Elliston Place institution. 615-327-1867; www.eldersbookstore.com; 2115 Elliston Pl, Nashville; 10am-4:30pm Mon-Sat

General Jackson Showboat

Choose from a variety of Cumberland cruises on this old-fashioned paddleboat. 615-458-3900; www.generaljackson.com; 2812 Opryland Dr, Nashville; adult/child from $18/13

Hatch Show Print

Buy vintage music posters at this old-school printer, around since the late 1800s. 615-256-2805; www.hatchshowprint.com; 316 Broadway, Nashville; 9:30am-5:30pm

Ryman Auditorium

Once a church, this towering brick tabernacle is now one of America’s most-loved music venues. 615-458-8700; www.ryman.com; 116 5th Ave N, Nashville; tours adult/child $13/6; 8am-4pm

Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge

This two-story purple building is the queen of the Broadway honky-tonks. 615-726-7937; www.tootsies.net; 422 Broadway, Nashville; no cover; 10am-late

EAT & SLEEP

Cafe Coco

This 24-hour cafe is like the perfect college dorm, with munchies, wi-fi, music and easy conversation. 615-321-2626; www.cafecoco.com; 210 Louise Ave, Nashville; mains $6-10; 24hr

Hermitage Hotel

Luxuriate in the ornate, high-ceilinged lobby, plush rooms and an oak-paneled bar that resembles an English gentlemen’s club. 615-244-3121, www.thehermitagehotel.com; 231 6th Ave N, Nashville; r from $279

Margot Cafe

French and Italian peasant dishes become sublime in the hands of chef Margot McCormack at this East Nashville favorite. 615-227-4668; www.margotcafe.com; 1017 Woodland St, Nashville; mains $14-22; 5pm-10pm Tue-Sat, brunch Sun

Nashville Farmers Market

Have Southern meatloaf or Szechuan noodles at the lunchtime food court, then browse the tomato plants. 615-880-2001; www.nashvillefarmersmarket.org; 900 8th Ave N, Nashville; mains $5-10; food court 11am-3pm

Pancake Pantry

Gorge on syrup-drenched chocolate chip, blueberry and sweet-potato pancakes at this always-crowded joint near Vanderbilt. 615-383-9333; 1796 21st Ave S, Nashville; mains $5-10; 6am-4pm;

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.nashvillescene.com

www.visitmusiccity.com

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LINK YOUR TRIP www.lonelyplanet.com/trip-planner

TRIP

58 Country Music Capital: Nashville opposite

59 Tennessee Oddities

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Return to beginning of chapter

TRIP 58

Country Music Capital: Nashville

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WHY GO For country music lovers from Peoria to Poland, a trip to Nashville is the ultimate pilgrimage. Feel yourself drawn to the neon lights, smoky honky-tonks and glitter-spangled extravaganzas like a moth to a flame. Country is not the most popular American musical genre for nothing.

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TIME

2 days

BEST TIME TO GO