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brick mansions. Duck down side streets and back alleys for peeks at hidden backyard gardens and ornate architectural details like rose windows, fleur-de-lis stained glass and wrought iron widow’s walks. Don’t miss St James Court, where stately homes face an open green space with a brass fountain and old-fashioned gaslights. Adjacent Central Park was designed by Frederick Law Olmstead, the famed landscape architect responsible for the park of the same name in New York City. Several Old Louisville historic homes are open for tours, including the castle-like Conrad-Caldwell House, complete with gargoyles, and the pink and white beaux arts Ferguson Mansion, with its original Tiffany lamps and ceiling murals depicting scenes from old German folktales.

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THE POPE LICK MONSTER

Half-man, half-goat, this creature is said to haunt the train trestle on Pope Lick Rd in East Louisville. Either the ghost of a circus freak seeking revenge, or an undead Satan-worshipping farmer, the monster supposedly hypnotizes victims into walking out onto the 100ft-high trestle, where they’re killed by oncoming trains. The legend was even the subject of a low-budget 1980s movie, Legend of the Pope Lick Monster.

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Be sure to check out the calendar for the Actor’s Theatre of Louisville, considered one of the best regional theater companies in America. Founded in 1964, the company produces everything from musicals to avant-garde one-acts and is home to the renowned Humana Festival of New American Plays. An evening at the theater, housed in the grand old Bank of Louisville building downtown, is a refined treat.

Emily Matchar

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Nashville, take I-65 North for about 170 miles and get off at exit 137 for I-64, getting off at exit 4.

DO

Actor’s Theatre of Louisville

See a play at one of America’s best regional theaters, in an old bank building. 502-584-1265; www.actorstheatre.org; 316 W Main St, Louisville; tickets $25

Churchill Downs

The Kentucky Derby is held every May at this most famous of all racetracks, with an on-site museum. 502-636-4400; www.churchilldowns.com; 700 Central Ave, Louisville; track admission $3, museum adult/child $10/5; race times vary, museum 8am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 11am Sun

Conrad-Caldwell House

This Romanesque mansion was once known as “Conrad’s Castle.” 502-636-5023; www.conradcaldwell.org; 1402 St James Ct, Louisville; admission $5; noon-4pm Wed-Sun

Falls of the Ohio State Park

A shallow area of the river reveals ancient marine fossils at this park, just over the water in Indiana. 812-280-9970; www.fallsoftheohio.org; the end of W Riverside Dr, Clarksville, IN; adult/child $4/1; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, from 1pm Sun;

Ferguson Mansion

Tour one of the grandest homes in Louisville’s Victorian district. 502-635-5083; filsonhistorical.org; 1310 S 3rd St, Louisville; admission free; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri

Louisville Slugger Museum

Learn about the production of this iconic baseball bat, adored by the likes of Babe Ruth. 877-775-8443; www.sluggermuseum.org; 800 W Main St, Louisville; adult/child $9/4; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun;

Muhammad Ali Center

See videos and interactive exhibits on the life of Louisville’s own “Greatest.” 502-584-9254; www.alicenter.org; 144 N 6th St, Louisville; adult/child $9/4; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, from noon Sun

EAT & SLEEP

21c Museum Hotel

This luxe boutique hotel houses a contemporary art museum. 502-217-6300; www.21chotel.com; 700 W Main St, Louisville; r from $160

J Graham’s Cafe

In the Brown Hotel, this is the birthplace of the famed Hot Brown sandwich. 502-583-1234; www.brownhotel.com; 335 W Broadway, Louisville; mains $7-16; 7am-3pm

Lilly’s Bistro

Local food gets haute treatment at this sumptuous Southern bistro. 502-451-0447; www.lillyslapeche.com; 1147 Bardstown Rd, Louisville; mains $19-36; 11am-3pm & 5:30pm-10pm Tue-Sat

Lynn’s Paradise Cafe

Linger over brunch at this art-filled diner. 502-583-3447; www.lynnsparadisecafe.com; 984 Barret Ave, Louisville; mains $7-15; 7am-10pm