Carolinas, Georgia & South Trips (Lonely Planet, 1st Edition) - Alex Leviton [155]
To tour a working stable and training facility, visit the Thoroughbred Center, where visitors get to see a day in the life of Derby hopefuls, from morning workouts to cool-down currying. You’ll see exactly why blue-blooded Kentucky horses get reputations as divas. In the afternoon get even more up-close-and-personal with the horses with a guided ride at Sunburst Horsemanship Center. This picturesque Lexington farm offers lessons for all levels, from basic safety to advanced jumping.
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“The American Saddlebred horse was developed primarily in Kentucky and was often used to ride around the plantations. It was showy and high-stepping and pretty, and could be hitched to the wagon and go to church and show off. It was developed from a riding horse into a show horse - we have quite a strong showing contingent around here, They’re beautiful horses, with long flowing manes and tails - very aristocratic.”
Kathy Hopkins, Lexington
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In the evening, put your money on an old-school harness race, where jockeys are pulled behind the horses in two-wheeled carts called sulkies, at the Red Mile. Fans have been cheering from the grandstands at this red dirt track since 1875. Though live races are in the fall only, simulcasts are offered year-round.
For dinner, try quirky a la Lucie in Lexington’s grand historical district. The funky bistro decor could have been scrounged from a Parisian flea market, but the menu is all over the map - lobster corn dogs, Mediterranean stuffed eggplant, bourbon pork. Spend the night in restored 19th-century style at the Gratz Park Inn around the corner. Its leather and dark wood-paneled library makes you just itch to smoke a pipe.
If you have time in the morning, drive 30 miles through scenic pasturelands dotted with horse barns along Hwy 68 to Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill. In the early 1800s these softly rolling hills were home to a communal society of 500 peace-loving men and women. Though the Shakers worshipped God through uninhibited ecstatic dancing, they practiced strict celibacy (probably why there aren’t any left). See their remarkable craftsmanship in dozens of restored buildings and learn about their history at the Shaker Life Exhibit.
Emily Matchar
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TRIP INFORMATION
GETTING THERE
From Nashville, take I-65 North for about 170 miles and get off at exit 137 for I-64, getting off at exit 4 for Louisville.
DO
Churchill Downs
The world’s most famous horseracing track is home to the Kentucky Derby and various other races. 502-636-4400; www.churchilldowns.com; 700 Central Ave, Louisville; admission $3; race times vary
Kentucky Horse Park
This horse-theme park has 50 breeds and two equine history museums. 859-233-4303; www.kyhorsepark.com; 4089 Iron Works Parkway, Lexington; adult/child $15/8; 9am-5pm;
Red Mile
This 1875 red-dirt track has live harness racing and simulcasts. 859-255-0752; www.theredmile.com; 1200 Red Mile Rd, Lexington; simulcasts afternoon & evening
Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill
America’s largest restored Shaker village, outside the town of Harrodsburg, has an inn, restaurant and historical displays. 800-734-5611; www.shakervillageky.org; 3501 Lexington Rd, Harrodsburg; tours adult/child $14/7; 10am-5pm
Sunburst Horsemanship Center
This school and training facility has lessons for riders of all levels. 859-224-8480; www.sunbursthorsemanshipschool.com; 1129 Durham Lane, Lexington; intro lesson $50;
Thoroughbred Center
Watch champion horses go through their paces at this working farm. 859-293-1853; www.thethoroughbredcenter.com; 3380 Paris Pike, Lexington; adult/child $10/5; tours 9am Mon-Sat
EAT & DRINK
a la Lucie
This bohemian bistro has vintage furniture and an eclectic international menu. 859-252-5277; www.alalucie.net; 159 N Limestone St, Lexington; mains $18-30; 11:30am-2pm Mon-Fri & 4:30pm to 10pm Mon-Sat
Holly Hill Inn
This stately old country manse is just the place for a special dinner.