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Il Palio

Upscale Italian delicacies paired with top-notch wine in an elegant setting. 919-929-4000; www.sienahotel.com/ilpalio; 1505 E Franklin St, Chapel Hill; mains $12-32; 6:30am-10am & 11:30am-2pm daily, also 5:30-9pm Sun-Wed & 5:30-10pm Thu-Sat

Krispy Kreme

Have a late-night doughnut in the state that brought the world the treat. 919-833-3682; www.krispykreme.com; 549 N Person St, Raleigh; $1; 24hr;

Lantern

Asian-Southern fusion known for its cocktails, Slow Food-inspired menus and sophisticated atmosphere. 919-969-8846; www.lanternrestaurant.com; 423 W Franklin St, Chapel Hill; mains $14-26; 5-10pm Mon-Sat, bar menu until 2am

Locopops

Beloved gourmet Mexican popsicles with shops in Chapel Hill, Raleigh, Durham and Hillsborough. 919-286-3100; www.ilovelocopops.com; 431 West Franklin, Chapel Hill; $2-3; noon-9pm;

Magnolia Grill

An internationally award-winning neighborhood restaurant with desserts to die for. 919-286-3609; www.magnoliagrill.net; 1002 Ninth St, Durham; mains $22-31; from 6pm Tue-Thu, 5:30pm Fri & Sat, closing around 9:30pm or 10pm

DRINK

Hell

Descend into an underworld of drinking, debauchery, trivia nights and drag bingo. 919-929-9666; www.chapelhell.com; 157 Rosemary St, Chapel Hill; drinks $2-8; 9pm-2am

SLEEP

Fearrington Inn

A reclaimed village with an inn, restaurant and surrounding shops & farmlands. 919-542-2121; www.fearrington.com; 2000 Fearrington Village Rd, Pittsboro; r $250-545

Inn at Celebrity Dairy

The most peaceful spot in the Triangle, with roaming farm animals, an inviting B&B and a third Sunday of the month supper. 919-744-5176; www.celebritydairy.com; 144 Celebrity Dairy Way, Siler City; r $90-150;

Siena Hotel

Just outside the main Franklin St strip, the Tuscan-inspired hotel has professional rooms and a bellissimo restaurant. 919-929-4000; www.sienahotel.com; 1505 E Franklin St, Chapel Hill; r $125-259;

Webb House B&B

The centrally located bed and breakfast offers early-19th century panache with decidedly modern amenities. 919-732-8466; www.webbhousebb.com; 117 Queen St, Hillsborough; r $95-195;

USEFUL WEBSITES

www.durhamloveyourself.com

www.visitchapelhill.org

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LINK YOUR TRIP www.lonelyplanet.com/trip-planner

TRIP

13 University Tour of the Triangle opposite

14 From Dirty Dancing to Dawson’s Creek

17 Piedmont Traditions

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Return to beginning of chapter

TRIP 13

University Tour of the Triangle

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WHY GO Sure, Duke and University of North Carolina basketball are legendary (Michael Jordan, anyone?), but did you know the Triangle’s universities are the place to go for lush gardens, groovy nightlife districts and the world’s largest sanctuary of pro-simian primates?

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TIME

2 days

DISTANCE

78 miles

BEST TIME TO GO

Jan - Jun

START

Raleigh, NC

END

Chapel Hill, NC

ALSO GOOD FOR

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Start in Raleigh at North Carolina State University, where football reigns supreme. Part of the Atlantic Coast Conference (ACC), NC State’s team is known as the Wolfpack, a moniker assigned to rowdy student fans in 1922. Things haven’t changed much, as Carter-Finley Stadium, home to Wolfpack football, has one of America’s great tailgating traditions. Bring your bratwurst and Nerf football and join in.

Head west on I-40 to reach Durham, home to two of the largest area universities, including North Carolina Central University. Durham was a hotbed of the intellectual African American middle class in the 1930s and 1940s and NC Central was a Southern epicenter. Zora Neale Huston spent a year teaching at the university. For an educational meal, head across the street to an impromptu alumni reunion center, The Know Bookstore and Diner, where Bruce, the owner, has been dishing up African American-focused books and some of the area’s best soul food (with a side of conspiracy theory) since 1982. Don’t even consider leaving without trying the navy bean pie. On Friday nights