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community of Mount Pleasant. Some of the area’s best seafood can be found around Shem Creek, where fishermen bring in their catch in the evenings. On an unpaved road overlooking the water, The Wreck of the Richard and Charlene exemplifies the truism that in the South, some of the best eats are usually found in the dingiest places – gas stations, fishermen’s shacks and cinderblock bunkers with hog cookers smoking out back. In an old bait warehouse, The Wreck serves sloppy piles of fried shrimp and red rice at plastic tables. There’s no sign outside; just look for the cars.

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LOWCOUNTRY CUISINE

South Carolina’s central and southern coastline, known as the Lowcountry, has its own unique culture and cuisine. Here, the West African roots of the Gullah people shine through, with heavy use of okra, sweet potatoes and rice. Parties here often feature a Lowcountry boil (also known as Frogmore Stew) – shrimp, crab legs, sausage and corn cooked in a big pot then served on a newspaper-covered table. Another typical dish, Hoppin’ John, is made from rice, black eyed peas and onions.

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Sleep in the French Quarter at Vendue Inn, a boutique hotel on a historic lane by the water. While some Charleston inns can have a bit of a formal, twin-set-’n’-pearls vibe, the Vendue is all about trendy exposed brick and quirky antiques. Rooms have deep soaking tubs and gas fireplaces; the two-story rooftop bar has live music and the best views of the skyline at sunset.

Before you leave town, swing by S.N.O.B. (it stands for Slightly North of Broad) for self-described “maverick Southern cooking” in a trendy, exposed brick dining room. Think pan-fried Carolina quail, house-smoked salmon, and luxe banana cream pie. Try their funky take on shrimp and grits, a classic Charleston fisherman’s breakfast. S.N.O.B.’s version, featuring homemade sausage, will keep you full for the journey home.

Emily Matcher

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

From Houston, take I-10 east for about 350 miles and follow the signs for New Orleans.

DO

Charleston Cooks!

Watch a Lowcountry cooking demo at this downtown cooking store. 843-722-1212; www.mavericksouthernkitchens.com; 194 E Bay St, Charleston, SC; class $25

Fondren Beverage Emporium

Taste dozens of kinds of root beer and other rare and forgotten sodas at this one-of-a-kind soft drink and candy shop. 601-321-0806; 3030 N State St, Jackson, MS; 10am-6pm Tue-Sat;

Mast General Store

This old-time general store sells “penny” candy from barrels and mountain foodstuffs like honey and blackberry preserves. 828-232-1883; www.mastgeneralstore.com; 15 Biltmore Ave, Asheville, NC; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, later on weekends;

New Orleans School of Cooking

Sip a cold beer as you watch personable chef-instructors cook up classics like gumbo and pralines. 504-525-2665; www.neworleansschoolofcooking.com; 524 St Louis St, New Orleans, LA; class $27

EAT

Café Du Monde

The floors are coated with powdered sugar from the famous beignets at this 24-hour French Quarter café. 504-525-4544; www.cafedumonde.com; 800 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA; beignets $1.75; 24hr

Central Grocery

The original muffalettas are big enough for four people at this small Italian deli. 504-523-1620; 923 Decatur St, New Orleans, LA; mains $7-13; 9am-5pm Tue-Sat;

Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous

Rib-hungry diners pack this subterranean institution. 901-523-2746; www.hogsfly.com; in the alley off Second St btw Union & Monroe, Memphis, TN; mains $7-18; 4:30pm-10:30pm Tue-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat

Cochon

This James Beard award-winner does amazing upscale Cajun. 504-588-2123; www.cochonrestaurant.com; 930 Tchoupitoulas St, New Orleans, LA; mains $7-22; 11am-10pm Mon-Fri, 5:30pm-10pm Sat

Cozy Corner

Barbecued Cornish game hen is an offbeat delicacy at this family-run bungalow. 901-527-9158; 745 N Pkwy, Memphis, TN; mains $5-16; 10:30am-5pm Tue-Sat, later in summer

Felix’s Oyster Bar

Crowds pack in for the fresh market oysters prepared every which way. 504-522-4440; www.felixs.com; 739