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By Root 679 0

many of whom made Asheville their permanent home. The Vanderbilt-Cecil family still owns the estate and, guessing by the entrance fee, the upkeep must be outrageously steep. Purchase your tickets after 3pm and you can return a second full day. In addition to the main house, four restaurants, an inn, a winery, gift shops, hiking trails, carriage rides, gardens and lakes provide a day’s worth of activities.

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AMERICA’S FIRST NEW AGE TOWN

Before a family named Vanderbilt “discovered” the scenery, climate and fresh mountain air, Asheville was mostly an Appalachian livestock waystation. The 1960s town council almost razed the art-deco downtown (second only to Miami) to slap up a mall. Today, the livestock is usually found drizzled with locally grown raspberry coulis, the car repair shop is called OM (for Organic Mechanic, of course) and the neighborhood ecovillage teaches permaculture classes. Preservationists won the city center battle, and folks of all ages and hair color flock to its art, shopping and music scene.

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After a day at the Biltmore, come back to town for a stroll and dinner. Stop in at Nest Organics, the consumer culmination of Asheville’s sustainability commitment. Protect the environment one hemp journal or steel sippy cup at a time. In the evening, relax at one of six local breweries, including Jack of the Wood, which doubles as a live music venue serving casual pub fare. You can feel the connection to Asheville’s original Scots-Irish settler heritage in the brew pub’s camaraderie and twangy Celtic-influenced traditional music.

Not a lot of cities offer a chance to sleep in the woods within a nine-minute drive of downtown. But this is Asheville, so not only can you camp nearby, you can stay in an honest-to-Mongolian-goodness yurt at Campfire Lodgings. It blends the best of country camping (fire pits, mountain views, sweeping trees) and the city (minutes from downtown, free wi-fi, clean bathrooms). From downtown, take I-26 towards Weaverville.

Alex Leviton

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TRIP INFORMATION

GETTING THERE

Asheville is a four-hour drive from Raleigh, due west through the Triad on I-40, and a little over two hours northwest of Charlotte.

DO

Biltmore Estate

An entire day’s worth of architecture, history, scenery and a little 250-room summer house. 800-411-3812; www.biltmore.com; 1 Approach Rd, Asheville; adult/child/teen Sun-Fri $47/free/22.50, Sat $51/free/24.50; house 9am-5:30pm, restaurants & shops vary;

Grove Arcade

Locally made jewelry, clothes and furniture, plus restaurants, art deco architecture and a deli. 828-252-7799; www.grovearcade.com; 1 Page Ave, Asheville; core hours 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun;

LaZoom Tours

Family friendly bio-diesel-fueled comedy tour of Asheville. 828-252-6932; www.lazoomtours.com; meets at French Broad Food Coop, 90 Biltmore Ave, Asheville; tours adult/child $22/12; 10:30am Tue, Wed & Fri; 6pm Thu & Sat May-Oct;

Malaprops Bookstore and Café

An independent bookstore with a popular café. 828-254-6734; www.malaprops.com; 55 Haywood St, Asheville; 8am-9pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat, to 7pm Sun;

Nest Organics

Natural or organic bedding, towels and baby supplies. 828-258-1901; www.nestorganics.com; 51 N Lexington Ave, Asheville; 11am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm Sat, noon-4pm Sun;

Woolworth Walk

Start your foray into the Asheville art scene with more than 150 artists’ displays in one gallery. 828-254-9234; www.woolworthwalk.com; 25 Haywood St, Asheville; admission free; 11am-6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat, to 5pm Sun;

EAT & DRINK

Early Girl Eatery

Classic Southern diner fare with a farm-grown twist, especially good for breakfast. 828-259-9292; www.earlygirleatery.com; 8 Wall St, Asheville; mains $3-16; 7:30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun, also 5-9pm Tue-Thu, 5-10pm Fri & Sat;

Jack of the Wood

Brew pub featuring local bands, pub fare and home-brewed beer. 828-252-5445; www.jackofthewood.com; 95 Patton Ave, Asheville; small plates $3.50-8.50; 11:30am-2am Mon-Sat, 3pm-close Sun

Tupelo Honey Cafe

Organic ingredients