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11. Cut a hole in the center of the top of the pâté about 3⁄4 inch/2 centimeters in diameter. Using a piece of foil, make a 3-inch/7.5-centimeter tube, or “chimney,” to fit in the hole and wrap a ring of your reserved dough around the chimney to support it. Return the pâté to the oven and bake until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center reaches 140 degrees F./60 degrees C. Let cool to room temperature.

12. Pour the aspic through the vent hole, filling the terrine up to the top. Refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.

Yield: 24 slices; 12 appetizer servings

[ NOTES: 1. If you’re cutting the salmon yourself, you’ll have a lot of trimmings. Use them for or add them to a seafood sausage (page 147) or salmon pâté (page 242), or cure and hot-smoke (see pages 53 and 77) for a smoked salmon spread, mixing to taste with some butter, crème fraîche, sour cream, lemon juice, and fresh herbs. 2. See pages 204–212 for a detailed description of the general terrine method. ]

Aspic for Seafood Terrines

THE STOCK

3 pounds/1.5 kilograms bones from lean white-fleshed fish (Dover sole, turbot, snapper, grouper)

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters vegetable oil

1⁄2 cup/70 grams chopped celery

1⁄2 cup/70 grams chopped onion

1⁄2 cup/70 grams chopped leek (white part only)

1 bunch fresh thyme

1⁄2 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

6 black peppercorns

1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters dry white wine

5 cups/1.25 liters cold water

THE ASPIC

6 tablespoons/90 milliliters cold water

1 ounce/36 grams powdered gelatin (about 3 tablespoons)

1 quart/1 liter fish stock (above), chilled

2 large egg whites

1 3⁄4 cups/250 grams finely chopped ripe tomatoes

1 tablespoon/6 grams roughly chopped fresh parsley

4 ounces/110 grams shrimp, shelled, deveined, and finely chopped

Juice of 1⁄2 lemon

1. To make the stock: In a nonreactive pot, sauté the fish bones in the oil over medium heat. Add the vegetables and sauté for 8 to 10 minutes, until softened. Add the herbs, peppercorns, wine, and water and bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to a bare simmer for 45 minutes. Do not allow the stock to boil, or it will become cloudy and be difficult to clarify.

2. Strain the stock through a fine-mesh sieve or a strainer lined with cheesecloth. Cool, then refrigerate until chilled.

3. To make the aspic: Place the cold water in a bowl, sprinkle the gelatin over, and allow it to absorb the water (bloom). Set aside.

4. In a large heavy-bottomed nonreactive saucepan, add the cold stock and the remaining ingredients, including the bloomed gelatin. Raise the heat to medium-high, and bring to a simmer, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon so the egg white doesn’t stick to the bottom, until a raft forms. Once the raft forms, lower the heat, stop stirring and gently simmer for 30 minutes; don’t allow to boil, or the stock will be cloudy.

5. Strain the stock through a dampened cheesecloth or a coffee filter. Put a few tablespoons on a plate and chill it to test the strength. The aspic should be firm enough to cut but melt when it hits the warmth of your mouth. If it is too loose, bloom more gelatin, dissolve it in the warmed stock, and test for strength again.

Yield: 3 cups/750 milliliters

Special Pâtés and Terrines

Any kind of molded preparation that doesn’t include traditional forcemeat can be called a terrine. Indeed, such preparations can be every bit as dramatic and enticing as traditional terrines.

GRILLED VEGETABLE TERRINE WITH GOAT CHEESE

This is very much a salad—vegetables with a vinaigrette. The only difference is that here the vegetables are molded and the sauce is mixed with gelatin to bind the terrine and hold its shape. Vegetable terrines should be intensely flavored and visually dramatic; because they’re also as healthful and refreshing to eat as a vegetable salad, they’re invariably popular. This one can be served with additional vinaigrette (you might add some roasted shallot for a roasted shallot vinaigrette). If you’re serving it as an elegant first course, you might