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garnish, for any cold or warm fish preparation and, with its high-fat, high-acid content, is especially good with seafood terrines.

2 cups/500 milliliters Basic Mayonnaise (see page 277)

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters Dijon mustard

1⁄4 cup/60 grams finely chopped cornichons

1 tablespoon/15 grams chopped capers

1 anchovy fillet, finely chopped

3 tablespoons/24 grams chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon/3 grams chopped fresh chervil (optional)

1 teaspoon/3 grams chopped fresh tarragon

1. Put the mayonnaise and mustard in a bowl, and fold all the remaining ingredients.

2. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container for up to a week.

Yield: 21⁄2 cups/625 milliliters

SAUCE GRIBICHE

Sauce gribiche is a classic French sauce using cooked egg yolks, and it typically includes small tart pickles (gherkins or cornichons) and lots of herbs, notably tarragon. It’s a delicious tangy vinaigrette-mayo hybrid. There are all kinds of variations, some loose, others emulsified. This version is straight out of Escoffier: The Complete Guide to the Art of Modern Cookery, published in 1907. It’s fully emulsified, the consistency of mayonnaise. Escoffier recommended serving it with fish terrines. In fact, it goes equally well with pork dishes and may be the perfect all-purpose charcuterie sauce.

3 large hard-cooked eggs

1 1⁄2 teaspoons/7.5 milliliters Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters fresh lemon juice, or to taste

Kosher salt

2 teaspoons/10 milliliters white wine vinegar

3⁄4 cup/185 milliliters vegetable oil or canola oil

1 1⁄2 tablespoons/35 grams chopped capers

3 tablespoons/45 grams chopped cornichons

1 teaspoon/3 grams minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon/3 grams minced fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon/3 grams minced fresh chervil

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Separate the egg yolks from the whites. Press the yolks through a fine sieve into a medium bowl. Add the mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar and season with a healthy pinch of salt. Whisking continuously, drizzle in the oil, drop by drop at first, then in a very thin stream, until all the oil is incorporated and you have a smooth, thick emulsion.

2. Finely dice the egg whites and fold them into the sauce, along with the remaining ingredients. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more lemon juice and/or salt and pepper as necessary.

Yield: 1 cup/250 milliliters

CUCUMBER DILL RELISH

This sour cream–based sauce is perfect for seafood terrines and seafood sausages. It’s also excellent for any salmon, whether cured, smoked, or poached.

1 English cucumber, peeled and sliced into 1⁄4-inch/0.5-centimeter disks

1 tablespoon/15 grams kosher salt

3 tablespoons/45 milliliters red wine vinegar

1⁄2 cup/70 grams minced Spanish onion

3 tablespoons/24 grams chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon/5 grams sugar

3⁄4 cup/185 milliliters sour cream

1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters extra virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1. Toss the cucumbers with the salt and a splash of the vinegar in a bowl, and set aside to marinate for 1 hour.

2. Drain the cucumber and dice. Toss gently with the remaining vinegar and other ingredients except the pepper. Taste for seasoning, then add the pepper.

3. Cover and allow to stand in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 hours, and up to a day, before serving.

Yield: 2 cups/500 milliliters

SMOKED TOMATO AND CORN SALSA

This is a colorful mix of chopped vegetables and aromatics, a straight forward pico de gallo–style sauce. The smokiness of the tomatoes can go with smoked or nonsmoked items. The lime, chiles, and cilantro give the salsa a sharp Southwestern flavor that pairs well with fish, poultry, and pork. This recipe makes a lot, and it can easily be halved—but a bowl of it next to some corn chips disappears pretty quickly.

6 Roma (plum) tomatoes

2 ears fresh corn on the cob, shucked

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon/18 grams minced garlic

1⁄2 teaspoon/1 gram minced lemon zest

Juice of 1 lime

1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters olive oil