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2. Refrigerate until ready to use. (A vinaigrette can be refrigerated for 1 to 2 weeks.)

Yield: 2 cups/500 milliliters

RUSSIAN DRESSING

This is an all-but-forgotten tomato-mayo–based sauce that’s ripe for a comeback—it’s a real treasure. Of course, it’s what makes a Reuben what it is, but it’s excellent with so many items beyond cured beef and chef’s salad—elevating vegetables, eggs, and smoked white meats.

1 cup/250 milliliters Basic Mayonnaise (page 277)

1 tablespoon/10 grams prepared horseradish, squeezed dry

1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters chili sauce

1 tablespoon/18 grams minced onion

1 teaspoon/5 milliliters Worcestershire sauce

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Put the mayonnaise in a bowl and fold in all the remaining ingredients. The dressing will keep for 1 week in the refrigerator in a container with tight-fitting lid.

Yield: 11⁄4 cups/300 milliliters

CHIPOTLE BARBECUE SAUCE

This is an intense, complex sauce, very sweet and sour, heavily spiced, with the distinctive flavor and heat of the smoked jalapeño pepper, known as the chipotle. This is a delicious all-purpose barbecue sauce, especially good with slow-roasted pork shoulder.

1⁄2 cup/70 grams chopped onion

1 tablespoon/18 grams chopped garlic

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters olive oil

1⁄2 cup/125 milliliters cider vinegar

1⁄2 teaspoon/2 grams ground cloves

1⁄2 teaspoon/2 grams ground coriander

1⁄4 teaspoon/1 gram ground allspice

1⁄4 packed cup/50 grams dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters molasses

1 tablespoon/16 grams seeded and minced chipotle peppers in adobo sauce

3⁄4 cup/185 milliliters catsup

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters Worcestershire sauce

1⁄2 cup/125 milliliters veal stock, chicken stock, or water

1. Sauté the onions and garlic in the oil in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until well browned, about 15 minutes.

2. Add the vinegar and simmer to reduce by half. Add the remaining ingredients, bring to a gentle simmer, and cook for 15 minutes.

3. Puree with a hand blender, or transfer to a regular blender and puree. The sauce keeps for a week refrigerated.

Yield: 11⁄2 cups/375 milliliters

CAROLINA-STYLE BARBECUE SAUCE

The term barbecue refers to a specific preparation in the Carolinas, often called pig pick, pulled pork, slow-cooked pork shoulder tossed with a vinegar-based sauce, sometimes with tomato, and served on a bun or beside a pile of hushpuppies. In addition to being a component of Carolina barbecue, this sauce would work well with braised chicken, duck, or beef. But it’s best with North Carolina hog.

1⁄2 cup/70 grams minced onion

1 tablespoon/18 grams minced garlic

1 tablespoon/15 milliliters vegetable oil

1⁄2 cup/125 milliliters cider vinegar

1⁄2 cup/125 milliliters Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon/4 grams Colman’s dry mustard

2 tablespoons/26 grams dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons/16 grams paprika

1 tablespoon/15 grams kosher salt

1 teaspoon/3 grams cayenne pepper

1 cup/250 milliliters catsup

1. In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, gently sauté the onion and garlic in the oil until softened but not colored.

2. Add all the remaining ingredients except the catsup and bring to a simmer. Stir in the catsup and cook gently for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat. The sauce keeps for up to 1 week refrigerated.

Yield: 2 cups/500 milliliters

CUMBERLAND SAUCE

This classic sauce, with a dominant profile of red currant and mustard, is based on Escoffier’s recipe and is ideal for rich venison terrines, or any rich duck or goose or pork dish. It’s often served cold, so the fruity, spicy, acidy components are used aggressively.

Grated zest and juice of 1 orange

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 tablespoons/36 grams minced shallots

1 1⁄4 cups/300 milliliters currant jelly

1 1⁄2 teaspoons/4 grams Colman’s dry mustard

3⁄4 cup/185 milliliters ruby port

1⁄2 teaspoon/3 grams kosher salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of ground ginger

1. Blanch the zest and shallots in boiling