Charcuterie_ The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing - Michael Ruhlman [30]
Our friend Michael Pardus, a chef-instructor at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, often finds himself with an abundance of fresh vegetables in late summer and has been experimenting with natural pickles like these so that the exquisite Hudson Valley produce can be enjoyed year-round. He’s learned that a 5-percent brine (50 grams of salt per liter, or a little less than 2 ounces, about 1⁄4 cup, per quart) is perfect for just about any vegetable. Hearty root vegetables such as carrots make excellent pickles.
“I’ve found that carrots, cucumbers, small turnips, radishes, green tomatoes, pep-pers—both hot and sweet—onions, green beans, mushrooms, and eggplants all work well,” Michael says.
The quality of the vegetables going in (especially with cukes) makes a big difference in the success of the pickle. Also, it can be difficult to pickle in warm weather, because temperatures above 75 degrees F./23 degrees C. can allow bad bacteria to take over. You can pickle in the refrigerator, but it can take three times as long, depending on the density of the vegetable. The other critical matter is ensuring that all the vegetables are kept submerged. Otherwise, Michael says, “evil molds and slimy things start to grow.” Aromatics, garlic, herbs, and chiles all add flavor and, presumably, more helpful bacteria for a livelier pickle.
A classic sauerkraut is a pure form of pickling: sliced cabbage is salted, weighted and covered, and left in a cool place to ferment, the cabbage releasing enough water to create its own brine.
THE NATURAL PICKLE
Here is the basic method for pickling by fermentation. It’s a simple process that requires no special tools other than the right-sized container. The precise salt-to-water ratio is 50 grams per liter, for a 5-percent salt solution (one of the many examples of why the metric system is best in the kitchen; we’ve also given amounts for our less-efficient system.)
13⁄4 ounces/50 grams kosher salt
Optional but recommended seasonings: aromatics such as garlic, ginger, and chiles, peppercorns, or fresh herbs such as thyme or tarragon, or Pickling Spice (below)
41⁄4 cups/1 liter water
8 ounces/225 grams trimmed (and peeled, if appropriate) vegetables (carrots, beans, onions—see the suggestions above)
1. Combine the salt, the seasonings, if you’re using them, and the water in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove the brine from the heat and let cool to room temperature.
2. Place the vegetables in a clean jar that will hold them comfortably. Pour enough brine over the vegetables to cover them. Fill a small plastic bag with more brine and press this on top of the vegetables to keep them submerged, or press a piece of plastic wrap down on top of the vegetables and pour more brine onto it. It’s essential that the vegetable remain completely covered.
3. Place the jar in a cool spot to ferment for 7 days. (Any temperature above 75 degrees F./23 degrees C. or so will encourage the less benevolent bacteria to take over. See the headnote for more information.
4. After 7 days, taste the vegetables. They should retain their crunch and have a mild salty-sour taste (not sour like vinegar). If you would like a stronger sour flavor, cover and let the vegetables sit for 3 more days, or until the desired sourness is reached.
5. To store the pickled vegetables, remove them from the brine and place in a clean jar or other container. Strain the brine into a pan and bring to a boil (this is a precaution against any harmful bacteria that might still be present). Remove from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature.
6. Pour the cooled brine over the vegetables, cover,