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3. Combine the remaining ingredients in a shallow bowl, mixing well. Dredge the meat on all sides in the spices so that the pieces are uniformly coated.

4. Hot-smoke the pork (see page 77) to an internal temperature of 150 degrees F./65 degrees C. The ham will keep for several weeks refrigerated and for several months well wrapped in the freezer.

Yield: Five 14-ounce/350-gram slabs tasso ham

Smoked Pork Loin

Here are two recipes for pork loin, both of which take into account that this particular cut of pork, given current commercial growing conditions, is very lean and difficult to cook flavorfully.

CANADIAN BACON (CURED SMOKED PORK LOIN)

Canadian bacon is brined with a curing salt and herbs before it’s smoked. The brine, of course, results in a moister loin than one that has not been brined. The herbs season it, the pink salt gives it its cured flavor, and then the smoke adds a third layer of flavor.

Alternatively, you can make perfectly tasty Canadian bacon without smoking it, roasting the loin in a low oven (200 degrees F./93 degrees C.) to an internal temperature of 145 to 150 degrees F./63 to 65 degrees C. But the smoke really does add an important dimension to this lean cut.

THE BRINE

1 gallon/4 liters water

11⁄2 cups/350 grams kosher salt

1 cup/225 grams sugar

11⁄2 ounces/42 grams pink salt (8 teaspoons)

1 large bunch fresh sage

1 bunch fresh thyme

2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly smashed

One 4-pound/2-kilogram boneless pork loin, all fat and sinew removed

1. Combine all the brine ingredients in a pot large enough to hold the pork loin and bring to a simmer stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until chilled.

2. Place the pork loin in the brine and weight it down with a plate to keep it completely submerged. Refrigerate for 48 hours.

3. Remove the loin from the brine (discard the brine), rinse it under cold water and pat ry. Place it on a rack set over a plate or a tray and refrigerate, uncovered for 12 to 24 hours.

4. Hot-smoke the pork (see page 77) to an internal temperature of 150 degrees F./65 degrees C., 2 to 3 hours. Allow to cool, then cover and refrigerate for up to 10 days.

Yield: 31⁄2 pounds/1.5 kilograms Canadian bacon

SPICY SMOKE-ROASTED PORK LOIN

In this recipe, a complex, highly spiced dry rub makes a plain pork loin extraordinary. The smoke does add a superb depth but the dry rub is so intense, the pork can also simply be roasted with excellent results (in a 350-degree-F./175-degree-C. oven to an internal temperature of 145 degrees F./63 degrees C., about 40 minutes). To slow-roast it on a rotisserie would be another outstanding alternative, or grill it over low or indirect heat to that same internal temperature.

The loin can be served immediately or refrigerated and eaten cold, sliced thin. Hot or cold, this spicy pork will go well with a sauce using sharp flavors such as mustard or horseradish. If you want to reheat the cold pork, do so in a moist environment, on a bed of sliced onions or cabbage in a pot with some stock and aromatic seasonings, to keep it from dry-ing out.

One 4-pound/2-kilogram boneless pork loin

Spicy Dry Rub (recipe follows)

1. Coat the pork all over with the dry rub. Wrap it in plastic and refrigerate it for 12 to 48 hours.

2. Smoke-roast the pork (see page 74) at 325 degrees F./160 degrees C. to an internal temperature of 140 degrees F./60 degrees C., about 45 minutes.

Yield: 31⁄2 pounds/1.5 kilograms smoked pork loin; 8 to 10 servings

Spicy Dry Rub for Pork

This dry rub is excellent on just about any cut of pork, shoulder, loin, or tenderloin, whether you plan to smoke it, roast it, or grill it. Because it’s so strong, you won’t need a lot of extra sauce if you’re using it with shredded pork shoulder. When using it with large cuts, it’s best to apply the rub to the meat ahead of time, then wrap it in plastic and refrigerate for 1 to 3 days.

1 tablespoon/10 grams freshly ground black pepper

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