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By Root 353 0

it comes from, it’s hotly debated and fiercely contested, and those fond of regional distinctions can get really worked up about the subject. We find it better to eat the subject.

1 bone-in pork shoulder butt, about 5 pounds/2.25 kilograms

11⁄2 ounces/40 grams kosher salt (3 tablespoons)

2 teaspoons/7 grams freshly ground black pepper

Carolina-Style Barbecue Sauce (page 288)

1. Sprinkle the pork evenly with the salt and then the pepper.

2. Hot-smoke the pork (see page 77) at between 200 and 300 degrees F./93 to 150 degrees C. for 3 hours.

3. Transfer the pork to a braising vessel with a lid, such as a Dutch oven or a roasting pan covered with foil, and add 1⁄2 cup/125 milliliters water. Cover tightly and set in the oven. Turn the oven to a 250 degrees F./120 degrees C. and cook until the meat shreds easily, about 4 hours.

4. Shred the meat in the pot. Add the barbecue sauce, stirring till the meat is evenly coated with the sauce. Serve warm.

Yield: 4 pounds/2 kilograms pulled pork

AMERICAN-STYLE BROWN-SUGAR-GLAZED HOLIDAY HAM

This is the classic American baked ham, like the honey-baked ham most are familiar with—as worthy a ham tradition as those of Europe. The ham is brined, then hot-smoked and glazed, after which it can be eaten cold or baked in a low oven to rewarm.

THE BRINE

1 gallon/4 liters water

11⁄2 cups/350 grams kosher salt

2 packed cups/360 grams dark brown sugar

11⁄2 ounces/42 grams pink salt (8 teaspoons)

One 12- to 15-pound/5.5- to 6.75-kilogram fresh ham, skin and aitch-bone removed

THE GLAZE

11⁄2 packed cups/270 grams dark brown sugar

3⁄4 cup/185 milliliters Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon/20 grams minced garlic

1. Combine all the brine ingredients in a container large enough to hold the ham and stir to dissolve the salt and sugar. Submerge the ham in the brine, weight it down to keep it completely submerged and soak for 6 to 8 days (half a day per pound/450 grams).

2. Remove the ham, rinse it under cool water, and pat dry. Place it on a rack set on a baking sheet and refrigerate it, uncovered, for 12 to 24 hours.

3. Hot-smoke the ham (see page 77) at 200 degrees F./93 degrees C. for 2 hours.

4. Meanwhile, mix the brown sugar, Dijon, and garlic in a bowl until smooth. Brush the ham with glaze (reserve the remainder) return it to the smoker, and smoke until it reaches an internal temperature of 155 degrees F./68 degrees C.

5. Remove the ham from the smoker and brush with the remaining glaze. Allow to cool, and refrigerate.

6. To serve, slice and serve cold, or reheat it in a 275-degree-F./140-degree-C. oven until warm in the center (test with a metal skewer).

Yield: 16 to 18 servings

SMOKED JALAPEÑOS

These are very close in flavor to the chipotles you find dried or canned in adobo sauce. Not surprising, since chipotles are in fact smoked jalapeños. This recipe delivers the characteristic smoke and heat, but with the flavor of a fresh pepper. The method is simple and can be applied to any fresh chile pepper: halve them, cold-smoke them, broil them to char, and remove the skin—and they’re ready to go. Fresh smoked chiles are a lot of fun because they add a kind of beguiling sweet-hot-smoky flavor people can’t quite place. Use them as a seasoning in salsas, in a spicy rice pilaf, in warm or cold salads, in bean salads, or in a spicy vinaigrette.

12 jalapeño chiles, halved lengthwise

1. Cold-smoke the peppers (see page 77) skin side down on a rack for 3 to 5 hours.

2. Preheat the broiler. Remove the chiles from the smoker, place them skin side up in a baking sheet, and broil to char the skin, about 10 minutes or so, depending on your broiler (if you’ve hot-smoked or grilled them, this step to remove the skin may not be necessary). When the skin is charred, place the chiles in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let cool.

3. When cool, stem, peel, and seed the peppers. Refrigerate covered for up to 6 days, or freeze until ready to use.

Yield: 12 smoked jalapeños

SPICY SMOKED ALMONDS

Almonds take smoke beautifully