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large funnel to fill the casing, one with an opening big enough for the diced onion and apple to pass through it (1 to 11⁄2 inches/2.5 to 3.5 centimeters in diameter): The color is an extraordinary lavender, very beautiful, until it’s poached, when it becomes nearly black—thus its name, black pudding.

This sausage, which has a very rich, savory, but not overly strong flavor, should be eaten as close to making it as possible, that day or the next.

Only pig’s blood works here (part of the magic of the pig—even its blood is superior to that of other animals); we don’t recommend using beef blood. But as it’s illegal to sell pork blood in the United States, it’s hard to find. If you know a local grower or the person who dresses the hogs, they may arrange to save some of the blood for you. Some crafty shoppers who live near major Chinatowns may be able to suss out some fresh blood there.

2 pounds/900 grams pork back fat, cut into small dice

2 pounds/900 grams onions, cut into small dice

4 ounces/125 grams unsalted butter

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut into small dice

1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters Cognac or Calvados

1 cup/250 milliliters heavy cream

2 large eggs

1 quart/1 liter fresh pig’s blood

13⁄4 ounces/45 grams kosher salt (3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon)

2 teaspoons/6 grams ground white pepper

1 teaspoon/4 grams Pâté Spice (recipe follows) or Quatre Epices (page 145)

1 tablespoon/6 grams chopped fresh chervil

1 tablespoon/6 grams chopped fresh chives

10 feet/2 meters hog casings, soaked in tepid water for at least 30 minutes, rinsed, cut into 2-foot/60-centimeter lengths, and tied with butcher’s string at one end

1. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add the pork fat, reduce the heat to a simmer, and poach for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside.

2. Sauté the onions in 2 ounces/50 grams of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat until soft and translucent. Take the pan off the heat, add the fat, and set aside.

3. Sauté the apples in 2 ounces/50 grams of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until soft. Turn the heat to high, add the Cognac or Calvados, and cook until it has evaporated. Transfer to a large bowl.

4. Add the onions to the apples and refrigerate till chilled.

5. Combine the cream and eggs in a bowl large enough to hold all the ingredients, and whisk to blend. Strain the blood into the cream (if the blood is congealed, rapidly whisk or blend it with a hand blender to liquefy it). Stir in the remaining seasonings and herbs. Gently stir in the chilled apple mixture. Sauté about 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters of the mixture, taste, and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

6. Fit a casing over the opening of the funnel and ladle in enough of the mixture to fill it (see Note below). Tie it off with butcher’s string and connect the two ends to form a ring. Repeat with the remaining casings.

7. Poach the sausage in 170-degree-F./76-degree-C. water until it’s firm and brown juices, not blood, ooze from it when pricked with a needle, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove to a rack to cool, then refrigerate.

8. To reheat, place the sausage on a baking sheet in a 350-degree-F./175-degree-C. oven for about 15 minutes.

Yield: About 5 pounds/2.25 kilograms sausage; 5 large rings

[ NOTE: See pages 135–140 for a detailed description of the basic grinding, mixing, stuffing, and cooking techniques. ]

Pâté Spice

This is Brian’s alternative to the traditional quatre épices mixture often used to season pâtés. Increase or reduce the amounts of the ingredients to suit your own taste and make your pâtés distinctly your own.

1 teaspoon/4 grams ground cloves

1 teaspoon/4 grams ground nutmeg

1 teaspoon/3 grams ground ginger

1 teaspoon/3 grams ground coriander

2 teaspoons/6 grams ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon/10 grams white pepper

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place in a container with a tight fitting lid.

Yield: 3 tablespoons/30 grams

SHRIMP, LOBSTER,