Chicken and Egg - Janice Cole [0]
A Memoir of Suburban Homesteading with 125 Recipes
BY Janice Cole
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALEX FARNUM
To Marty, without whom this book could never have happened.
INTRODUCTION
There’s something about chickens. Their very image seems to produce a chuckle. Just mention that you have chickens or that you want them, and you’ll be descended upon by someone wanting to know more. Chickens generate a response from everyone, from those who want a flock and need the specifics to those who think you’re crazy.
My interest in chickens started over nine years ago. When I finally got a tiny backyard flock, five years later, it immediately proved to be as interesting and fun as I hoped it would be. Today my hens continue to influence me and inspire my cooking.
This book is meant to encourage you—not necessarily to raise your own chickens, unless that’s your particular passion—to appreciate these birds and what they offer us. My hope is that as you begin to understand this species, you will consider the impact you can make when shopping for food and base your choices on how well the chickens are treated, whether they’re raised for eggs, meat, or companionship.
The recipes in this book reflect the bounty provided by the entire chicken. I have therefore included recipes for meat as well as eggs. You may eat chicken or not, depending on your own personal food philosophy. This book is not about influencing this type of food choice.
The chapters are arranged seasonally because chickens are seasonal in their behavior. In the fall and winter, the number of eggs that chickens produce decreases, sometimes so dramatically that they don’t lay at all for days or even weeks at a time. As a result, each egg is more precious, and we’re more careful about how many we use. In the spring and summer, the increased daylight stimulates the chickens to produce lots of eggs, which we use with abandon.
How we cook the meat also changes by season. In the spring and summer, grilled chicken appears on our table along with salads and light sautés, while in the winter we long for soups, roasts, and hearty braises. The recipes showcase the vibrant flavors these birds can provide.
Ingredients
Eggs
All of the recipes in this book are based on large eggs. The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) standard for a large egg in the shell is 2 ounces in weight. A large egg white measures 2 tablespoons, and the yolk measures 1 tablespoon, for a total of 3 tablespoons per large egg. That said, in a carton of eggs you will find some slightly larger and others slightly smaller because it is the total weight of a dozen eggs that determines the size.
SIZE OF EGG OUNCES PER DOZEN OUNCES PER EGG
Jumbo 30 2 1/2
Extra-large 27 2 1/4
Large 24 2
Medium 21 1 3/4
Small 18 1 1/2
Obviously, backyard hens produce eggs of varying sizes. When using your own eggs, especially for baking, weigh or measure the eggs before using.
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Chicken
If asked what’s for dinner, a majority of families across the United States would answer chicken. The amount of chicken Americans consume has more than doubled since 1970. But as processors have scrambled to keep up with the demand, the quality and taste of our chicken has declined. I hope this book will encourage you to search out well-raised chicken and prepare it creatively.
Whether whole or in pieces, chickens vary in size, especially if you buy pasture-raised or free-range hens. Most recipes indicate a range of cooking times, along with a doneness cue. You may need to adjust the time, based on the size of your bird. It’s important to not overcook chicken, regardless of what type you buy. But be sure it’s cooked through—the temperature at the thickest part of the meat should be at least 165°F.
The USDA has defined the following categories of chicken:
Broiler/fryer: A young chicken, about 7 weeks old, weighing between 2 1/2 and 4 1/4 pounds. The majority of chickens sold are in this category. The recipes in this book all work with this category of chicken.
Roaster: An older chicken, about