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pale yellow. Certain plants are high in natural pigments called carotenoids, and when chickens consume them, they produce brightly colored yolks. Eggs from free-range hens often have bright-orange yolks because the hens have access to a wider variety of plants containing the pigments. While commercially raised caged hens cannot be fed artificial colors, the color of their yolks will be affected by the type of feed they eat. And their feed can be enhanced by natural colors such as marigold petals to deepen the color of their yolks. But don’t be fooled; commercial eggs with orange yolks won’t taste as good as the free-range eggs they mimic.

Flat-Roasted Chicken Stuffed with Herbed Goat Cheese

Roasting a flat, butterflied chicken has several benefits. It’s easy to carve, it roasts faster because the inside of the chicken gets direct heat, and it also roasts more evenly because the meat is all the same thickness. There are no high areas, like the breast, cooking faster and becoming overdone. Stuffing the chicken under the skin not only flavors the meat but also keeps it moist.

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Preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly oil a large, rimmed baking sheet or coat with nonstick cooking spray. Stir together the cheese, 1 tablespoon of the herbs, 1 teaspoon of the oil, 1 teaspoon of the lemon zest, and ¼ teaspoon each of the salt and pepper in a small bowl until blended.

Loosen the skin of the chicken over the breast and all the way to the tops of the thighs by gently slipping your hand between the skin and the meat to create a pocket, being careful not to tear the skin. Spoon the cheese mixture under the skin and press the skin to spread out the stuffing evenly.

Spread out the chicken on the baking sheet so it’s as flat as possible, skin-side up. Position the legs so they are knock-kneed, with the legs facing each other. Tuck the wing tips behind the chicken. Brush the chicken with the remaining 2 teaspoons olive oil. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon herbs, 1 teaspoon lemon zest, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper, rubbing the herbs and lemon zest lightly into the skin.

Bake the chicken for 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and brush the chicken with the pan juices. Bake for an additional 10 to 15 minutes or until the internal temperature in the thickest part of the thigh reaches 175°F. Let sit for 10 minutes before carving and serving.

NOTE

When purchasing the chicken, look for one that is well covered with skin, without any tears. It will make it easier to stuff the cheese mixture under the skin.

SERVES 4

6 ounces fresh goat cheese

2 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as rosemary, thyme, and sage

3 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons grated lemon zest

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

One 3 ½- to 4-pound chicken, backbone removed (see Note, Fast and Crispy Roast Chicken)

Poached Pears and Apricots with Marsala Cream Sauce

Poached pears always add a fresh and elegant finish to a meal. But they are truly impressive when served with this creamy variation of zabaglione, a warm, custard-like sauce made with egg yolks and wine, which hails from Italy. Sweet Marsala, an Italian dessert wine traditionally used to make zabaglione, adds caramel overtones to this rich sauce.

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To make the pears: Stir together the water, sugar, cinnamon sticks, and vanilla bean in a large pot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Meanwhile, peel the pears and cut a flat base so they stand upright. Working from the bottom of the pear, remove the core with a melon baller or grapefruit spoon and discard. Add the pears and apricots to the liquid, reduce the heat to medium or medium-low, partially cover, and boil gently for 25 to 35 minutes or until very tender when pierced with a skewer, turning the pears occasionally. Carefully remove the pears with a slotted spoon and set upright on a plate; place the apricots next to the pears. The poaching liquid can be discarded or stored in the refrigerator for another use.

To make the sauce: Whisk the egg yolks and sugar in