Coco Chanel_ An Intimate Life - Lisa Chaney [223]
9 From Bernardo Caparrini, I had these crucial references for Arthur’s movements: The Beaumont Lists for Fifty Years, 1861–1911; Supplement to The Beaumont Review Old Windsor; The Beaumont Review Office, 1911, p. 17; The Beaumont Lists, 1861–1961; The Beaumont Review, no. 207, October. 1963, p. 470. Bernardo also referred to “a manuscript document at the Mount Street archives (box PE/2) titled “Lists from 1887–1909 (with follow-up notes)” . . . in which it says (folio 190) . . . “Capel, Arthur Edward (entered Oct. 14, 1891; left Aug., 1897) b. Brighton 1881, was at a school in Paris. Went to San Sebastian in Spain. Was a Philosopher at Stonyhurst, where he carried off the Keating Prize . . .” (The “Keating Prize” was for the best essay on Christian Sociology.)
10 H. J. A. Sire, Gentlemen Philosophers, p. 5. Sire, suggested by Bernardo Caparrini, details life at Stonyhurst College for the Gentlemen Philosophers.
11 The New York Times, June 12, 1902.
12 Arthur Capel noted at a polo match at Deauville. Le Gaulois, August 16, 1909.
13 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 61.
14 Following polo at Deauville, Arthur is noted by Le Gaulois arriving at Dieppe on his yacht and then spotted the next day at the casino. Throughout the 1910s, he is regularly referred to in Le Figaro, The New York Times, et cetera.
15 Letter from Arthur Capel to Diana Wyndham: “I hate the main road & the crowd. The world I know is of my own making, the other makes me sick. Their morals, their convictions, their ambitions mean nothing to me. Fancy, sympathy & illusion have ever been my bed mates & I would never change them for Consideration, Position or Power.” Capel correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn. This letter is undated, as are all those from Arthur.
16 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion, pp. 71–72. I based my argument here on Ms. Steele’s description of the grisettes in this thought-provoking book.
17 Ibid., p. 71.
18 Ibid.
19 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 113.
20 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre née de Gramont, Mémoires, vol. IV, La treizième heure, p. 154.
CHAPTER 8 : Refashioning Paris
1 Vanessa Schwartz, Spectacular Realities, p. 229. Ms. Schwartz informed my descriptions of the development of mass culture in Paris.
2 Colin Jones, Paris: Biography of a City, p. 410. I am indebted, for this section, to this excellent work on Paris.
3 Ibid., p. 365.
4 Ibid., p. 386.
5 Schwartz, p. 92.
6 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 37.
7 Ibid.
8 Ibid.
9 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?, p. 77.
CHAPTER 9: The Rite of Spring
1 Revue de Paris, t. 6, pp. 279, 276. Blanche, regarded by some as ingratiating, was sharp tongued, a fine portraitist, and also made it his business to know everyone.
2 Modris Eksteins, Rites of Spring, p. 31.
3 Ibid., p. 72.
4 Ibid., p. 73.
5 Sjeng Scheijen, Diaghilev, p. 454.
6 Jane Pritchard, Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, “Diaghilev the Man,” p. 41.
7 Eksteins, p. 39.
8 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 26. Mary Davis’s seminal work was most helpful in the section on Poiret and the relationship between fashion and developing modernism.
9 Ibid.
10 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion, p. 230.
11 Femina, September 1, 1913.
12 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 89.
13 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 37.
CHAPTER 10 : The End of an Epoque
1 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 124.
2 Ibid.
3 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?, p. 18.
4 George de Symons Barrow, The Fire of Life, p. 149.
5 Ibid., p. 151.
6 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires, vol. III : Clair de lune et taxi-auto, p. 36.
7 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 43.
8 Ibid.
9 Ibid., pp. 43, 45.
10 Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires, vol. III, p. 79.
11 Ernest de la Grange, Open House in Flanders, December 29, 1914, p. 77.
CHAPTER 11 : Master of Her Art
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 46.
2 All references in this section ibid., p. 52.
3 Ibid., p. 45.
4 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 37.
5 Amy de la Haye, Chanel: