Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [112]
CONVENTO DE LA POPA
On a 150m-high hill, the highest point in the city, about 2km beyond Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas is this convent ( 666 2331; adult/child COP$6000/4000; 9am-5pm). Its name literally means the Convent of the Stern, after the hill’s apparent similarity to a ship’s back end, but it’s actually the Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, founded by the Augustine fathers in 1607. Initially it was just a small wooden chapel, which was replaced by a stouter construction when the hill was fortified two centuries later, just before Pablo Morillo’s siege.
A beautiful image of La Virgen de la Candelaria, the patroness of the city, is in the convent’s chapel, and there’s a charming flower-filled patio. There is also a chilling statue of a speared Padre Alonso García de Paredas straight out of The Omen. The priest was murdered along with five Spanish soldiers for trying to spread the good word.
The views from here are outstanding and stretch all over the city. The patron saint’s day is February 2 (Click here).
There is a zigzagging access road leading up to the convent (no public transport) and paths cutting the bends of the road. It takes 30 minutes to walk to the top, but it’s not recommended for safety reasons and climatic reasons – walking up would be equivalent to a trek in the Mojave! Instead go by taxi, though rates vary wildly (COP$12,000 at one end of the spectrum and as high as COP$40,000!).
MERCADO BAZURTO
For adventurous souls only, Cartagena’s labyrinthine central market (Av Pedro de Heredia; 24hr) is both dirty and enthralling, an all-out assault on your senses. If it’s marketable, it’s for sale here: endless stalls of fruits and vegetables, meat, fish and plenty of options to grab a quick bite or juice up on a chilled beverage. If you can find it, look for Cecilia’s restaurant, which sometimes serves up river turtle, shark and cow’s tongue (it’s located in the area known as Pescado Frito – ask and people can direct you). You won’t likely buy anything here, but it’s a fascinating glimpse into the daily lives of real cartagenos. Don’t wear flashy jewelry and pay close attention to your camera and wallet, but otherwise grab a taxi (COP$5000 from the old town) and explore away.
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Activities
Cartagena has grown into an important scuba-diving center, taking advantage of the extensive coral reefs along its coast. La Boquilla, just outside town, is also popular for kitesurfing.
aQuanaútica ( 656 8243; www.kitesurfcolombia.com; Hotel Las Americas, Cielo Mar) Kitesurfing school.
Cultura del Mar ( 664 9312; www.culturadelmar.com; Calle de la Media Luna No 10-43, Getsemaní) Offers scuba, snorkeling and an interesting overnight ecotourism option to Isla del Rosario
Diving Planet ( 664 2171; www.divingplanet.org; Calle Estanco del Aguardiente No 5-94) Offers PADI-certification course (COP$770,000).
Dolphin Dive School ( 660 0814; www.dolphindiveschool.com; cnr Parque Fernández Madrid & Calle Curato, San Diego; 7:30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun) Offers a PADI-certification course (COP$790,000).
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Courses
Amaury Martelo ( 313 526 3910; www.oceanfamily.net/Spanish; per hr COP$23,000; 9am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat) A recommended tutor for private Spanish lessons.
Nueva Lengua ( 660 1736; www.nuevalengua.com; Calle del Pozo No 25-95, Getsemaní) Five-day minimum language courses at this casual school start at COP$413,379.
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Tours
City tours in a chiva (a colorful, traditional bus) depart daily at 2pm from various hotels in upscale Bocagrande. The four-hour tour includes rides around Bocagrande, Castillo Grande and a walking tour of the walled city, plus visits to the Convento de la Popa and Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas. Any travel agency can book this for you, but you’ll need to find your