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San Diego; r from COP$420,000; ) The original details preserved in this 17th-century gem are exquisite. The entire hotel was built within the walls of a convent and the former cloister now forms massive hallways that surround the gorgeous interior walls and open-air courtyard. There is a crypt you can descend into in the middle of the trendy bar, and little things like original cannonballs (used as doorstops) and oratories throughout elevate this choice to a level not reached elsewhere in the old town.

La Passion ( 664 8605; www.lapassionhotel.com; Calle Estanco del Tabaco No 35-81, El Centro; s/d from COP$390,000/540,000; ) Perhaps what is the most discreet hotel entrance in town leads to this hidden gem, run by a French movie producer and his Colombian partner. The republican-style home dating to the early 17th century features eight uniquely decorated rooms and a potpourri of international design touches (Fez, Greece, Tlaquepaque) offset by modern indigenous photographs. Some rooms feature Roman baths and outdoor showers, but the true gem here is the Santorini-reminiscent pool and rooftop terrace with front row views of the Cathedral.

Hotel Charleston Cartagena ( 664 9494; www.hotelescharleston.com; Plaza Santa Teresa, El Centro; r from COP$720,000; ) The rooms at this former Convento de Santa Teresa rise up from two historic courtyards draped in bougainvillea. Colorful rooms are large and some offer sea views. In addition to the rooftop pool, fitness center and restaurants, it’s recently added a new spa.

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Eating

Plenty of snack bars all across the old town serve typical local snacks such as arepas de huevo (fried maize dough with an egg inside), dedos de queso (deep-fried cheese sticks), empanadas (meat and/or cheese pastries) and buñuelos (deep-fried maize and cheese balls).

Try typical local sweets at confectionery stands lining El Portal de los Dulces on the Plaza de los Coches.

In restaurants, you’ll often see the ubiquitous arroz con coco (rice sweetened with coconut) as an accompaniment to most fish and meat dishes. It’s addictive – you’ll miss it when you’re gone. Fruit stalls are also everywhere (often with tropical fruit looking so ripe and colorful, you’d swear it was photoshopped).

Part of the charm of eating in Cartagena is just wandering the various plazas and seeing what strikes your fancy. Plaza Santo de Domingo and Plaza de San Diego are both popular options for atmospheric plaza dining and people-watching, though the former is way more touristy – the waitresses practically beg you to chose their cafe over the one next door, promising, ‘Es diferente!’ when you know it probably isn’t.

BUDGET

Bocaditos Madrid ( 664 6021; Calle Segundo de Badillo No 36-171, San Diego; set meal COP$4500; breakfast & lunch Mon-Sat) This working-class lunch counter is a great place to try homey local food at rock bottom prices. There’s no menu, just a few daily changing options like chicken with maracuyá (passion fruit).

Gato Negro ( 660 0958; Calle San Andrés No 30-39, Getsemaní; mains COP$5000-6000; breakfast & lunch) This new German-run option concentrates on breakfast – omelettes, Nutella crepes, muesli – and offers a set COP$5000 lunch as well. There’s also wi-fi, a rarity for whatever reason.

La Mulata Cartagena ( 664 6222; Calle Quero No 9-58, El Centro; set meal COP$6000-7000; lunch) This stylish comida corriente (set lunch) option is both outstanding and cheap. A daily set menu offers a handful of excellent choices and aguas frescas (fresh juices) in an atmosphere entirely too hip for the price. It’s arguably the best value in Cartagena. There’s no sign outside – it’s under the Defensoría del Pueblo.

Several simple restaurants in Getsemaní serve set meals for around COP$6000 to COP$12,000. They include Restaurante Coroncoro ( 664 2648; Calle Tripita y Media No 31-28, Getsemaní; breakfast, lunch & dinner) and Getsemaní Café ( 317 781 5694; Calle San Andrés No 30-34, Getsemaní; breakfast, lunch & dinner). In San Diego, Girasoles ( 664 5239; Calle de los Puntales 37-01, San