Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [121]
Hotel San Pedro de Majagua ( 664 6070, ext 4008; www.hotelmajagua.com; Calle del Torno, San Diego in Cartagena; r from COP$264,000) This higher-end option affiliated with Hotel Sofitel Santa Clara in Cartagena offers both day trips to Isla Grande from a private pier in Cartagena, which include transport and lunch for COP$135,000; and overnight stays on the island in chic stone bungalows with fiber-woven roofs and minimalist decor. There are two beaches and a restaurant. Hotel guests pay COP$82,000 per person extra for transport.
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PLAYA BLANCA
Playa Blanca lives up to its name – it is indeed a lovely stretch of sugary sand and one of the finest beaches around Cartagena. The government has wised up to this, however, and the whole area is under consideration to be zoned a massive resort complex (many homes have already been torn down and the road is being paved). Playa Blanca may be Playa Sayonara in the next few years.
The beach is located about 20km southwest of Cartagena, on the Isla de Barú. It’s the usual stop for boat tours to the Islas del Rosario. Peddlers of every ilk descend upon tourists, turning an otherwise idyllic beach into a two-hour nightmare (the only thing worth buying is cocada, a sweet coconut treat that comes in a variety of flavors). To be fair, though, this is how folks here earn their living, as invasive as their hawking of wares may sometimes seem. There are also ladies at the ready to perform instant beach massages. Prices range between COP$20,000 to COP$30,000. At other times, it’s pretty quiet, and is best appreciated when the tourist machine has left the building. It’s also good for snorkeling as the coral reef begins just off the beach. You can rent gear for COP$5000 from peddlers on the beach.
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Sleeping & Eating
The beach has some rustic places to stay and a few restaurants all serving more or less the same thing – fresh fish and rice – for around COP$10,000 to COP$15,000.
Campamento Wittenberg ( 311 436 6215; wittenberg2000@hotmail.com; hammocks COP$9000, dm COP$18,000) This rustic spot, located on the far north side of the beach and tucked away 50m or so from shore, is the most popular with travelers. It’s run by a Frenchman, Gilbert, who offers hammocks (with mosquito net) under a thatched roof and two dorms with private showers (hammock sleepers pay COP$1000 for a shower). Gilbert also does a decent breakfast for an extra COP$4500. He is one of the last men standing after various demolitions for the possible resorts, but plans to move on to Sapzurro when the reaper comes. So definitely call ahead. Gilbert also offers sailing lessons and runs snorkeling trips that take in a nearby bird sanctuary.
La Estrella ( 312 602 9987; hammock COP$7000, r from COP$15,000, tents COP$25,000) If you want to stay closer to the water, Jose, a friendly local, offers nice tents under thatched roofs that sleep three to four people, typical hammocks (with mosquito net), and a sand-floored hut or two. It’s a decent alternative to Gilbert’s spot but without the handy English.
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Getting There & Away
As these things go in Cartagena, the easiest way of getting to the beach is on a tour, but you’ll find it far more peaceful at other times. Head to Av El Lago, behind Cartagena’s main market, Mercado Bazurto, in a taxi (COP$5000), and ask the driver to let you off at the boats to Playa Blanca. Boats depart on a first-come, first-served basis between 7:30am and 9:30am daily except Sunday. The trip takes one hour. Expect to pay COP$20,000 to COP$25,000, but never pay anyone (ie the captain) until you reach the beach. If you do, you will be paying a middleman who will take a cut. If they argue, walk away. Doing it this way is technically against the rules, so forget about it in high season (December to February) when police clamp down.
Alternatively, buses (COP$1200) marked Pasocaballos leave throughout the day from