Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [128]
The Carnaval begins on Saturday with La Batalla de Flores (the Battle of Flowers), a float parade. It continues on Sunday with La Gran Parada, when thousands of party-goers put on costumes and file through the streets. On Monday there is El Festival de Orquestas, a marathon concert of Caribbean music groups. The Carnaval concludes on Tuesday with a symbolic burial of Joselito Carnaval.
Apart from the official program, it is a round-the-clock party, fueled by large quantities of alcohol. An estimated 100,000 cases of rum and aguardiente (anise-flavored liquor) are sold. Although it is getting more commercialized and lacks some of the spontaneity of years ago, it is still the most colorful and maddest of all of Colombia’s festivals.
Unfortunately, as at all such crowded events, it’s a focus for all sorts of local and visiting thieves and robbers. Be on guard, especially if you plan to photograph or film the event. Think twice before accepting drinks or cigarettes from strangers or new ‘friends.’
The last factor to consider is accommodations. Unless you have booked a room well in advance, you can just about forget about finding a place to stay. Furthermore, room rates tend to rise by at least 20%.
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Sleeping
The center of budget accommodations is on and around Paseo Bolívar (Calle 34), but this area is seedier than a watermelon in June – just check the number of army personnel present even during the day. You can find rooms here for as little as COP$10,000, but there’s little telling what went down in them before you checked in. If you would like to be safer and in a more pleasant environment, stay in El Prado; it’s a rather upper-class district so you will pay for the privilege. You’ll also find the best food and nightlife, around Carrera 53 and between Calles 79 and 80.
Hotel Skal ( 351 2069; Calle 44 No 41-35; s/d with fan COP$20,000/25,000, with air-con COP$28,000/35,000; ) In the event that backpackers do find their way into downtown Barranquilla, they often stay at this musty option, somewhat made up for by the bonus pool. It’s on a safe street next to a police station.
Hotel Colonial Inn ( 379 0241; Calle 42 No 43-131; s/d with fan COP$30,000/40,000, with air-con COP$40,000/50,000; ) A far more comfortable city center option, with an air of faded glory about the lobby.
Hotel Barahona 72 ( 358 4600; www.hotelesbarahona.com; Carrera 49 No 72-19; s/d incl breakfast COP$69,000/94,000; ) Some of the large rooms in the cheapest El Prado option were recently renovated and a number of them have private saunas. Overall, it’s pretty good value for money when you consider the location.
Hotel Versalles ( 368 2183; www.hotelversallesinn.com; Carrera 48 No 70-188; s/d incl breakfast COP$105,000/149,000; ) This modern hotel is an excellent choice, within walking distance from El Prado museums and nightlife, and home to a friendly staff and a uniquely generous 3pm check-out time. There’s a pool, wi-fi, spa and some serious, fire hose–strength showers.
Hotel El Prado ( 369 7777; www.hotelelpradosa.com, in Spanish; Carrera 54 No 70-10; s/d incl breakfast from COP$175,000/210,500; ) One of the coast’s grand dames, this 1920s republican-style mansion is Barranquilla’s most historic and posh hotel. Rooms are nice but basic, so it’s more about soaking up the historical atmosphere within its walls and the large, tropical, pool area.
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Eating & Drinking
One of Barranquilla’s saving graces is food. You’ll find most of the good restaurants in El Prado. In Centro around Paseo Bolivar, you can find cheap eats under COP$2000.
La Casa del Sancochito ( 310 770 8185; Calle 74 No