Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [131]
LAUNDRY
Lavandería Santa Marta ( 431 5040; Calle 11 No 2-60; per kg COP$3000; 6am-7:30pm)
MEDICAL SERVICES
Hospital Centro Julío Mendez Barreneche ( 421 2226; Carrera 14 No 23-42)
MONEY
Banco de Bogotá (cnr Calle 14 & Carrera 4) ATM.
Bancolombia ( 421 0185; Carrera 3 No 14-10; 8-11:30am & 2-4pm Mon-Thu, 8-11:30am & 2-4:30pm Fri) Changes traveler’s checks and US dollars only.
POLICE
Policia Nacional ( 421 4264; Calle 22 No 1C-74)
POST
Deprisa ( 421 3274; Carrera 3 No 17-26; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Aviatur ( 421 3848; Calle 15 No 3-20; 8am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) Make reservations here for the concession’s camping and higher-end options (Ecohabs) at Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona.
Fondo de Promoción Turística de Santa Marta ( 422 7548; Calle 10 No 3-10, El Rodadero; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) Santa Marta’s member-based tourism office can provide loads more info than its government counterpart.
Parques Nacionales Naturales de Colombia ( 423 0758; www.parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 17 No 4-06) Limited national park info.
Tourist office ( 438 2587; Calle 17 No 3-120; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri) The city tourist office.
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Sights
MUSEO DEL ORO
The Gold Museum ( 421 0953; Calle 14 No 2-07; admission free; 8-11:45am & 2-5:45pm Mon-Fri) is in the fine colonial mansion known as the Casa de la Aduana (Customs House), but was getting a facelift at the time of research. It has an interesting collection of Tayrona objects, mainly pottery and gold, as well as artifacts of the Kogi and Arhuaco people. Don’t miss the impressive model of Ciudad Perdida, especially if you plan on visiting the real thing.
CATEDRAL
This massive whitewashed cathedral (cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 17) claims to be Colombia’s oldest church, but work wasn’t actually completed until the end of the 18th century, and thus reflects the influences of various architectural styles. It holds the ashes of the town’s founder, Rodrigo de Bastidas (just to the left as you enter the church). Simón Bolívar was buried here in 1830, but in 1842 his remains were taken to Caracas, his birthplace.
QUINTA DE SAN PEDRO ALEJANDRINO
This hacienda ( 433 2995; Av Libertador; adult/child COP$10,000/6000; 9:30am-4:30pm) on the outskirts of town is where Simón Bolívar spent his last days and died. The hacienda was established at the beginning of the 17th century and was engaged in cultivating and processing sugarcane. It had its own trapiche (sugarcane mill) and a destilería (distillery).
During the Bolívar era, the hacienda was owned by a Spaniard, Joaquín de Mier, a devoted supporter of Colombia’s independence cause. He invited Bolívar to stay and take a rest at his home before his intended journey to Europe. Since it’s inauguration, ownership has changed over 15 times. Highlights among the wares in the hacienda include an absolutely decadent marble bathtub.
Several monuments have been built on the grounds in remembrance of Bolívar, the most imposing of which is a massive central structure called the Altar de la Patria. Just to the right of this is the Museo Bolivariano, which features works of art donated by Latin American artists, including those from Colombia, Venezuela, Panama, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, the countries liberated by Bolívar.
The outstanding grounds, home to Santa Marta’s 22-hectare Jardín Botánico, are also worth a stroll. Some of the property’s trees are worth the trip out here alone. A new convention center and concert hall were under construction at time of research.
The quinta is in the far eastern suburb of Mamatoco, about 4km from the city center. To get here, take the Mamatoco bus from the waterfront (Carrera 1C); it’s a 20-minute trip (COP$1000) to the hacienda.
EL RODADERO
The quiet resort town of El Rodadero has sun, sand, sea and little else. Popular with Colombian tourists, the town has a wide beach lined with high-rise apartment blocks and upmarket hotels, plus a collection