Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [134]
Crêpes Expresso ( 317 280 5039; Carrera 1 No 18-67; crepes COP$5000-15,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Artsy French-owned crepería that does excellent crepes (though some with canned ingredients) and cocktails as well. The fan turns on with the bathroom light – nice touch in this heat.
Ben & Josep’s ( 317 280 5039; Carrera 1 No 18-67; mains COP$13,500-22,000; dinner Mon-Sat) Filets the size of Volkswagens are the specialty at this expat-owned bar/restaurant attached to the Park Hotel (though independent). It’s the best of the waterfront options. Drinks commence at 3:30pm (call ahead to reserve an outdoor table on weekends). The only pity is it closes too early and some of the cocktails are very weak, especially ones that call for nothing but alcohol – very hard to do.
Basilea ( 431 4138; Calle 16 No 2-58; mains COP$14,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) If you tire of coastal cuisine, this intimate Med-French place offers a nice change of pace, serving interesting dishes like the fiery red pepper steak (but where are the steak knives?) in Santa Marta’s most refined atmosphere. Save room for the excellent flan.
Donde Chucho ( 421 4663; Calle 19 No 2-17; mains COP$23,000-55,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Serving the best seafood on the coast, and sitting on prime real estate on the newly renovated Parque Santander. Start with the signature salad (shrimp, octopus, calamari and manta smoked in olive oil) and move on to robalo au gratin (mozzarella and parmesan). Divine. If this place doesn’t fit your budget, go Monday to Thursday between 6pm to 9pm and enjoy cocktails at 2-for-the-price-of-1. Don’t miss it.
EL RODADERO
Burukuka ( 438 0388; Detrás del Edificio Cascadas; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) Perched on a cliffside high above El Rodadero, this chic spot specializing in steaks turns into an all-night party Thursday to Saturday. Plant yourself on the expansive outdoor patio for a sunset drink, or make a night of it – it’s worth the taxi up here.
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Entertainment
Santa Marta’s nightlife really heats up on weekends and you’ll have no trouble finding a place to dance. Previously, hot spots were in El Rodadero (La Escollera is still good in high season if you’re out that way), but the party has moved back to Santa Marta for the most part.
BARS
Amancay (Carrera 2A No 16-47; 4pm-midnight Mon-Wed, to 2am Thu-Sat) This funky bar features Frank Miller strips lining the exposed brick walls and other abstract decor.
La Puerta ( 317 384 8839; Calle 17 No 2-29; 6pm-1am Tue-Wed, to 3am Thu-Sat) This artsy, multi-room space without a sign outside can get a little wild with gringos and students, especially on weekends. It’s not known as Oh La La La La Puerta for nothing.
Lautrec ( 421 4039; Carrera 2 No 16-08; 6:30pm-late) This spot has a personality disorder: is it a dark and mysterious haunt for creative types, or a dance club? It’s too dark and too noisy, but still a good time. Good on Sunday when most of Santa Marta is cooped up.
SPORTS
El Union Magdalena is Santa Marta’s local soccer team. Games are played at Estadio Eduardo Santos, located at Av Liberatador and Carrera 19 less than 2km from Centro. Games run throughout the year. Buy tickets at the stadium. A taxi there costs COP$6000.
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Getting There & Away
AIR
The airport is 16km south of the city on the Barranquilla–Bogotá road. City buses marked ‘El Rodadero Aeropuerto’ will take you there in 45 minutes from Carrera 1C. Flights include Bogotá (from COP$329,00 one way) and Medellín (from COP$298,000, one way).
AeroRepública/Copa ( 421 0120; www.aerorepublica.com; Carrera 3 No 17-27; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat).
Avianca ( 421 4018; www.avianca.com; Carrera 2A No 14-47; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
BUS
The bus terminal is on the southeastern outskirts of the city. Frequent minibuses go there from Carrera 1C in the center.
Expreso Brasilia/Unitransco (