Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [142]
Tayrona was the first advanced indigenous culture encountered by the Spaniards in the New World, in 1499. It was here in the Sierra Nevada that the conquerors were for the first time astonished by the local gold, and the myth of El Dorado was born.
The Spaniards crisscrossed the Sierra Nevada, but met with brave resistance from the indigenous people. The Tayronas defended themselves fiercely, but were almost totally decimated in the course of 75 years of uninterrupted war. A handful of survivors abandoned their homes and fled into the upper reaches of the Sierra. Their traces have been lost forever.
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During the Conquest, the Spaniards wiped out the Tayronas, and their settlements disappeared without a trace under lush tropical vegetation. So did Ciudad Perdida, until its discovery by guaqueros (grave robbers) in the early 1970s. It was a local man, Florentino Sepúlveda, and his two sons Julio César and Jacobo, who stumbled upon this city on one of their grave robbing expeditions.
Word spread like wildfire and soon other guaqueros came to Ciudad Perdida. Fighting broke out between rival gangs, and Julio César was one of the casualties. In 1976 the government sent in troops and archeologists to protect the site and learn its secrets, but sporadic fighting and looting continued for several years. During this time, the guaqueros dubbed the site the Infierno Verde (Green Hell).
Ciudad Perdida lies on the steep slopes of the upper Río Buritaca valley at an altitude of between 950m and 1300m. The central part of the city is set on a ridge from which various stone paths lead down to other sectors on the slopes. Although the wooden houses of the Tayrona are long gone, the stone structures, including terraces and stairways, remain in remarkably good shape.
There are around 170 terraces, most of which once served as foundations for the houses. The largest terraces are set on the central ridge and these were used for ritual ceremonies. Today, the city is quite overgrown, which gives it a somewhat mysterious air.
Archeological digs have uncovered Tayrona objects (fortunately, the guaqueros didn’t manage to take everything), mainly various kinds of pottery (both ceremonial and utilitarian), goldwork, and unique necklaces made of semiprecious stones. Some of these objects are on display in the Museo del Oro in Santa Marta and in Bogotá Click here. It’s a good idea to visit the museum in Santa Marta before going to Ciudad Perdida.
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Tours
Previously one agency, Turcol, had sole access to Ciudad Perdida. However in 2008 the Colombian military has cleared out the paramilitaries in the area, which has effectively opened up the route to Ciudad Perdida to healthy competition – there are now four main agencies guiding groups of travelers on the six-day hike to the ancient ruins, all of which are based in Santa Marta or Taganga. There are also several other smaller operations, many of which are just middlemen for Turcol. You cannot do the trip on your own or hire an independent guide.
The ‘official’ price of the tour is about COP$480,000, but nobody is paying this since competition was opened up. All of the agencies are well versed in a little hard-core bargaining and, at the time of research, were all dropping to around COP$325,000 for the all-inclusive six-day tour (though official prices are said to soon be jumping to COP$550,000). Though new competition has forced the agencies to operate at these very low profit margins, the 36 guides who lead the trek are talking about forming a union and driving the prices back up to normal, and refusing to work otherwise. Expect prices to have fluctuated a bit by the time you read this, and to continue to do so until it all shakes out. But whatever you do, do not purchase this trip from agencies in Bogot