Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [152]
Decameron Isla Palma ( 310 657 1994; www.decameron.com; Isla Palma; d from COP$416,000; ) This Club Med–like all-inclusive resort on Isla Palma offers all the usual suspects with one additional coup: a thin sliver of sand that takes honors for the best beach in the area.
Punta Faro ( 1 616 3136 in Bogotá; www.puntafaro.com; Isla Múcura; d 3-night all-inclusive package from COP$1.5 million; ) This Isla Múcura resort is the chicest in the archipelago, making liberal use of mangrove wood in its beautiful lobby and bedroom furniture, and catering mostly to wealthy Colombians. There is a private beach, three restaurants, two bars and transport from Cartagena. Equipment such as kayaks and snorkel gear is included in the price. Day passes for the beach run a stiff COP$75,000 (including lunch) but are a very handy option for those on a day tour here.
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TURBO
4 / pop 113,000
Previously off limits to foreigners due to muchos paramilitaries and guerrillas in the neighborhood, the situation in Turbo at time of research was secure and calm, but ridding yourself of revolutionaries does not a destination make. Part of the department of Antioquia 373km northwest of Medellín, Turbo is a loud and brass workhorse port surrounded by banana plantations and of little interest to travelers. It’s a get in, get out town whose one claim to tourism fame is the boat to Capurganá, which is nearly impossible to do without spending the night here. Don’t let the door hit you on the ass on the way out – Turbo is best seen through a rearview mirror.
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(NEARLY) OVERLAND TO PANAMA
First of all, it is not possible to drive a vehicle from Colombia to Panama – the Pan-American Hwy does not extend through Colombia’s jungly Darién Gap, though that doesn’t seem to stop some folks from trying. And though daredevils have crossed the 87km stretch in all-terrain vehicles, on foot, and loads of other ways, it is not safe and not recommended.
It is possible and fairly safe, however, to cross the border to Panama (mostly) overland, as opposed to taking a plane or a boat from Cartagena. At the time of research, the following route was secure and calm, but do check ahead for security updates before setting out, and stick to the coastal areas.1. Make your way to Turbo (opposite). Due to guerrilla activity in the area, the Medellín–Turbo route should be traversed during the day only – leave before noon (COP$51,000, eight hours). From Cartagena, you have to go to Montería (COP$35,000, 4½ hours) and change there for Turbo (COP$25,000, five hours). Buses run regularly from 7am to 5pm (leave Cartagena before 11am or you will be stuck for the night in Montería). In almost all scenarios, you will need to spend the night in Turbo.
2. Catch a boat to Capurganá. One boat departs daily from the Turbo docks (La Wuafa) at 8:30am in low season, and several throughout the day (when full) from 6am in high season (COP$49,000, 2½ hours). Arrive at least an hour early to secure a ticket. Hang on to your hat – this can be a bumpy ride. There is a 10kg baggage limit – COP$500 per kilo over charge applies.
3. Get your Colombian exit stamp at DAS ( 311 746 6234; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat), near Carpuganá’s harbor, one day before departure to Puerto Obaldia (the office will not be open by the time you leave on the morning of your departure). For accommodations in Capurganá, Click here. It’s a lovely little town to kill a few days in.
4. Take a lancha (small boat) over the border to Puerto Obaldia (COP$20,000, 45 minutes) in Panama. Boats depart Capurganá at 7:30am on Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday – the same days that flights run from Puerto Obaldia to Panama City. Be at the docks by 7am and ask around for Marcelino or Justino. This is another dicey sea journey depending on sea conditions.
5. Obtain your Panama entry stamp at Panamanian immigration upon disembarking in Puerto