Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [154]
For those making the overland trek to Panama and vice-versa, these two lax towns make for an ideal spot to break your journey, with wonderful, swimming pool–pure beaches and a wealth of nature-related activities in the vicinity. Keep in mind these are border towns, and no ordinary border at that – it’s the gateway between South and Central America. There are many soldiers about town.
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Information
There are no banks in either town, so it’s best to load up on cash before arrival.
Capurganá Tours ( 824 3173; www.capurganatours.com; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Sat) Friendly English-speaking agency that can book your flights in Panama as well as excursions in the area.
DAS ( 311 746 6234; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) Immigration services for those heading to Panama.
Internet (per hr COP$3000; 9am-9pm Mon-Sat) In the Jasepca building.
Panamanian consulate ( 314 653 4081; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Near the soccer field.
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Sights
Both Capurganá and Sapzurro feel different than the rest of the coast; the ramshackle architecture and tranquil vibe feel somehow more Caribbean. Both towns are good for doing not much of anything. Those who do get out and about are rewarded with supreme beaches and wonderful nature opportunities. El Cielo, a primitive one-hour jungle hike into the mountains from Capurganá, offers several natural swimming pools and waterfalls along a trail that is also home to howler and squirrel monkeys, toucans and parrots. A pleasant coastal hike to Aguacate (one hour) also makes for a nice afternoon, stopping at beaches along the way (empty in low season) and taking in the even less crowded coastal village.
The two best beaches in the area are La Miel, just across the Panamanian border from Sapzurro (bring your ID – there is a co-Colombian/Panamanian military checkpoint). It’s a quick walk up a series of steep stairs across the border and back down the other side (turn right at the phone booths and follow the sidewalk). The small beach here offers scrumptious white sand and cerulean waters, as does Playa Soledad, accessed by a three-hour walk or on a tour. It’s better than La Miel as it’s longer and cleaner.
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Activities
Capurganá is reportedly home to better diving than Taganga. At Dive and Green ( 316 781 6255; www.diveandgreen.com; 8:30am-12:30pm & 2-5:30pm) two tank dives cost COP$170,000 and PADI certification costs COP$790,000.
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Sleeping & Eating
Restaurants are scarce in Capurganá, so most of the hotels offer all-inclusive packages, though there are a few budget options around the soccer field. Hotel owners often hang around the dock, waiting for passengers.
Camping El Chileno (Sapzurro; hammock COP$7000, campsite per person with/without tent COP$9000/7500, dm COP$20,000) Very rustic camping and hammock accommodations on the nicest end of Sapzurro’s beach. Ask anyone in town for ‘El Chileno’ and they will point you in the right direction.
Hostal Los Delfines ( 316 866 3739; Capurganá; r per person with/without meals COP$28,000/12,000) This is a remarkably nice spot for the price – rooms include TVs, private bathrooms and patio hammocks. The owner, Anibal Palacio, always meets the boat from Turbo. It’s in Capurganá proper.
Cabaña Darius ( 314 622 5638; www.dariuscapurgana.es.tl; Capurganá; dm COP$15,000, r per person COP$20,000; ) Run by a helpful American, this cozy Capurganá cabin offers very well appointed rooms and bathrooms with freshly tiled floors and a nice outdoor kitchen. It’s on Playa