Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [156]
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HIGHLIGHTS
Groove to reggae rhythms over Old Milwaukees at Roland Roots Bar
Dig your toes into the pristine sands of beautiful Johnny Cay, part of the four-hectare Johnny Cay Natural Regional Park
Trek through iguana country to El Pico for stunning views of Providencia
Go into the blue on a scuba dive or in a semisubmarino and gawk at Colombia’s prettiest coral reefs and marine life
Swim with the sting rays at sunset off Haynes Cay
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History
The first inhabitants of the islands were probably a group of Dutch colonists who made their home on Providencia toward the end of the 16th century. In 1631 they were expelled by the English who effectively colonized the islands, home to the Raizal people, an Afro-Caribbean ethnic group. The English brought in black slaves from Jamaica and began to cultivate tobacco and cotton. The Spanish, irate at the English success on the islands, unsuccessfully invaded the archipelago in 1635.
Because of their strategic location, the islands provided convenient shelter for pirates waiting to sack Spanish galleons bound for home laden with gold and riches. In 1670 legendary pirate Henry Morgan established his base on Providencia and from here he raided both Panama and Santa Marta. Legend has it that his treasures are still hidden on the island.
Shortly after Colombia achieved independence, it laid claim to the islands, although Nicaragua fiercely disputed its right to do so. The issue was eventually settled by a treaty in 1928, which confirmed Colombia’s sovereignty over the islands.
Geographic isolation kept the islands’unique English character virtually intact, though things started to change when a flight service connected the islands to the mainland in the 1950s. In 1954 a government plan to make the islands a duty-free zone brought with it tourism, commerce, entrepreneurs and Colombian culture, which slowly began to upend the 300-year-old Raizal identity, pushing it aside in favor of big tourism bucks. Unprepared and unqualified to make a living on tourism, locals were caught off guard.
In the early 1990s, the local government introduced restrictions on migration to the islands in order to slow the rampant influx of people and preserve the local culture and identity. Yet, Colombian mainlanders account for two-thirds of San Andrés’ population. English and Spanish have been the two official languages since 1991.
The tourist and commercial boom caused San Andrés to lose much of its original character; it’s now a blend of Latin American and English-Caribbean culture, though there is a movement to restore Raizal roots in San Andrés. Providencia has preserved much more of its colonial culture, even though tourism is making inroads into the local lifestyle.
Although the political status of San Andrés and Providencia is unlikely to change, Nicaragua continues to press the issue of its sovereignty over the islands at the International Court of Justice in the Hague. The court reaffirmed Colombia’s sovereignty over the main islands in 2007, but said it would rule on the maritime boundary and secondary islands at a later date undetermined at the time of research.
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Climate
The climate is typical of the Caribbean islands, with average temperatures of 26°C to 29°C, but humidity can be uncomfortably high. The rainy period is September to December and (a less wet period) May to June. Tourist season peaks are from late December to late January, during the Easter week and from mid-June to mid-July.
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Parks & Reserves
In 2005 the Seaflower Marine Protected Area (MPA) was established to strengthen protection of key ecosystems in the marine area of the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve. The MPA includes 65,000 sq km of crystalline waters that are zoned for a variety of uses ranging from complete protection to controlled fishing. The objective