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Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [161]

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takes the place of patacones (fried plantains) as the starch of choice, and ubiquitous Caribbean conch.

Be sure to try the most traditional dish, rundown (often phonetically spelled ‘rondon’ due to islander accents), a soupy dish of lightly battered fish, plantains, yucca and other gooey starches, all slow cooked in a healthy dose of coconut milk.

Gelateria Da Matilde (Map; 522 2117; Av Colombia, San Andrés Town; 11am-10pm) Damn good Italian ice cream.

Mr Panino (Map; 512 0549; Av Providencia No 2-47, San Andrés Town; mains COP$11,000-35,000; lunch & dinner) An Italian specialty deli with numerous sandwiches, pasta, risotto and a beautiful octopus carpaccio. It’s nicer than most others in town, though not pricier.

Fisherman Place (Map; 512 2774; Av Colombia, San Andrés Town; mains COP$12,000-23,000; noon-4pm) This open-air, beachside restaurant is a great spot to support local fishers and eat well. Rundown and fried fish are the most popular dishes.

Miss Celia O’Neill Taste (Map; 316 690 0074; Av Colombia, San Andrés Town; mains COP$15,000-20,000; lunch & dinner) A good spot for native food like rundown, stewed crab and stewed fish, served within a colorful home with a large garden and patio. It’s across from the Club Nautico.

Restaurante West View (Map; 513 0341; Circunvalor Km11, West View; mains COP$15,000-59,000; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This West View option looks ordinary but the food stands out. Try the filet of fish. The owner is planning some nifty coconut bungalows.

Mahi Mahi (Map; 512 4115; Hotel Casablanca, Av Colombia, San Andrés Town; mains COP$20,000-38,000; lunch & dinner) After lengthy travel in Colombia, this chic Thai spot on the waterfront, part of Hotel Casablanca, will send your palate dancing with its curries and island-tinged dishes.

Restaurante La Regatta (Map; 512 0437; Av Newball, San Andrés Town; mains COP$18,999-71,580; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) One of the islands’ best restaurants: the coconut-curry marinera is nothing short of perfection. The sweeping Caribbean views and an extraordinarily friendly staff seal the deal.


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Entertainment

There are several nightspots in San Andrés Town along the eastern end of Av Colombia. Head here and see what’s hot.

Blue Deep (Map; Sunrise Beach Hotel, Av Newball, San Andrés Town; cover after 11pm COP$10,000; 9:30pm-3am Thu-Sat) The biggest disco in town holds 700 sweaty bodies. There is live music (salsa and reggaetón), which provides the soundtrack for a decent mix of locals and tourists, stumbling about after too many frothy rum punches.

Éxtasis (Map; 512 3043; Hotel Sol Caribe San Andrés, Av Colón, San Andrés Town; cover COP$20,000; 9:30pm-3am Mon-Thu, 9:30pm-4am Fri-Sat) Another good disco, this one with TV screens (soccer, of course) and three rows of lounge chairs for those that prefer voyeurism. You can recoup COP$12,000 of the cover in cocktails.

Kiss Me (Map; 512 9551; Av Colombia, San Andrés Town; 4pm-4am Tue-Sun) Unfortunately named blue-lit bar/disco with a small dance floor and over-water back patio. It seems to draw a vaguely more metrosexual crowd than others in its vicinity, as well as more locals.

La KY (Map; 512 7779; Av Colombia No 1-30, San Andrés Town; 4pm-midnight Mon-Thu, 4pm-3am Fri-Sat) This Miami-esque open-air lounge draws a sophisticated and attractive crowd, hopped up on bottle service and donning camera-ready smirks.


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Getting There & Away

AIR

The airport is in San Andrés Town, a 10-minute walk northwest of the center, or COP$9500 by taxi. You must buy a tourist card (COP$29,000) on the mainland before checking in for your San Andrés–bound flight. Airlines that service San Andrés include Avianca (Map; 512 3349; Av Colón, edificio Onaissi, San Andrés Town; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat) and AeroRepública (Map; 512 7619; Sucursal Centro Comercial San Andrés, San Andrés Town; 8am-noon & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat). There are direct connections to Bogotá (from COP$312,151), Cali (from COP$369,700), Cartagena (from COP$386,700), Medellín (from COP$369,700)

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