Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [164]
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Festivals & Events
Crab migration (May to June) This annual event lasts for a week or two. There may be many crabs on the move then, particularly in Aguadulce and Bahía Suroeste, and roads can be closed to provide safe crossing for them. They aren’t absent the rest of the year, either. Keep a look out!
Cultural Festival (June) Providencia’s major event is in the last week of June. It includes music and dance, a parade of motorcycles and, just for kicks, an iguana beauty pageant.
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Sleeping & Eating
Generally speaking, accommodations and food are expensive on Providencia, even more so than on San Andrés. Most travelers stay in Aguadulce, but there are also some lodging and eating facilities in other areas of the island, including Santa Isabel and Bahía Suroeste.
AGUADULCE
This 20-house hamlet offers peace, quiet and little else. There are more than a dozen places to stay; some have their own restaurants and offer a bed-and-board package. For better or worse, the Decameron chain has taken over most of the best places to stay, so independent travelers can be shut out in high season.
Mr Mac ( 514 8168; s/d COP$30,000/50,000) Mr Mac is the cheapest option in town, and considering ol’ Mac is getting pretty old and frail to maintain the pace, it’s still not a bad option at all. Rooms are large, with kitchenettes, and are right on the water.
Hotel El Pirata Morgan ( 514 8067; www.hotelpiratamorgan.com; s/d incl breakfast COP$90,000/150,000; ) A solid option in the center of town, with a handy minimarket downstairs. It lacks of the Caribbean flair of the others, but is also a little cheaper, and offers more lush surroundings than elsewhere on the beach. It’s the only hotel, though, without English-speaking front-desk staff.
Posada del Mar ( 514 8168; pousadelmar@latinmail.com; s/d incl breakfast COP$110,000/150,000; ) Well-maintained Barbie-colored midrange option featuring large rooms, all with balconies housing hammocks facing the beach.
Sol Caribe Providencia ( 514 8036; www.solarhoteles.com; r per person COP$175,000; ) Following the island’s kaleidoscopic color scheme, this bright yellow hotel is the most upmarket in Aguadulce. There’s a pleasant seaside restaurant, rooms with nice hardwood furniture and colorful Caribbean art, and very expensive internet (COP$10,000 per hour). Rates include breakfast and dinner (without them, knock off COP$35,000).
Cabañas Miss Elma ( 315 303 4208; philhuffington@yahoo.es; r per person COP$180,000; ) The colorful common areas and wonderfully casual seaside restaurant here are pretty idyllic, but the disappointing interiors are more country house than Caribbean and rather plain at that. Rates include three meals.
Arts & Crafts Café ( 514 8297; 1:30-9pm) This French-run shop/cafe is a good place for espresso and its famous paleta popsicles made from island fruits. It’s also a great spot for artisanal products like honey, marmalade and tamarind wine. There’s a book exchange as well.
Pizza’s Place ( 514 8224; mains COP$6000-55,000; dinner) A cheaper option, doing sandwiches (COP$6000) and pizza (from COP$13,000) in addition to a handful of island staples.
Caribbean Place ( 514 8698; mains COP$18,000-53,000; lunch & dinner) Though this wonderful island seafooder isn’t cheap, Bogotá-trained chef Martin Quintero is doing serious food in a casual atmosphere. Highlights include mountainous black crab, unique to the archipelago in Colombia.
SANTA ISABEL
Strangely, Santa Isabel, despite its gorgeous location in a picturesque bay attached to Santa Catalina, doesn’t see much tourism. A touch of work making it over and this place would be much more appealing to travelers.
Old Providence Hotel ( 514 8691; s/d COP$45,000/80,000; ) This