Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [174]
CLASSICAL MUSIC
Both Teatro Metropolitano and Teatro de la Universidad de Medellín (Map; www.udem.edu.co/UDEM/Servicios/Teatro) present concerts of classical and contemporary music. Another regular stage for concerts and recitals is the 300-seat Sala Beethoven in the Palacio de Bellas Artes (Map; 229 1400; Carrera 42 No 52-33).
TANGO
Once the preferred dance of the we’re-not-really-Colombian paísas, it now lingers on in the memories on the older generation, and those with a taste for nostalgia.
Casa Gardeliana (Map; 212 0968; casagardelianamedellin@hotmail.com; Carrera 45 No 76-50; admission free; 9am-5pm) Located in Barrio Manrique, the Casa Gardeliana was the main tango venue for years, hosting tango bands and dance shows. It still has them from time to time, though now it’s basically a small tango museum, featuring memorabilia related to tango and Carlos Gardel.
Compañia de Baile A Puro Tango ( 279 5576, 282 8310; www.espectaculosapurotango.com) This dance company puts on tango shows in different venues every month. Check the website for upcoming events.
El Patio del Tango (Map; 351 2856; Calle 23 No 58-38; mains COP$18,000-30,000; dinner Wed-Sun) Now the tango’s major stage in Medellín, this steak restaurant is decorated like a typical Buenos Aires tango dive. There are often shows on Friday and Saturday nights.
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Shopping
Medellín is Colombia’s major textile producer so there are plenty of clothes to choose from, and sometimes you can get good deals on surplus goods.
Centro Comercial Palacio Nacional (Map; cnr Carrera 52 & Calle 48) A palatial building from 1925 in the center, it has been transformed into a shopping mall with more than 200 budget shops (most selling clothing and footwear). The area around the Palacio, nicknamed El Hueco (The Hole) by the locals, features plenty of bargain stores.
Plaza Minorista José María Villa (Map; cnr Carrera 57 & Calle 55) Home to a huge, bustling undercover market with more than 2500 stalls, selling mostly food. It was established in 1984 to remove hawkers from the streets. Open daily.
Mercado de San Alejo (Map; Parque de Bolívar; 1st Sun each month) A colorful craft market great for cheap buys or simply to stroll around.
For some finer shopping, head to the upscale malls of El Poblado, including El Tesoro (Carrera 25A No 1AS-45), Vizcaya (Calle 9 No 30-382) and CC Oviedo (Map; Carrera 43A No 6S-15). All have a variety of European and American fashion stores.
BOOKSTORES
Centro Colombo Americano Central Medellín (Map; 513 4444, Plaza San Fernando, Carrera 45 No 53-24); El Poblado (Map; 326 4444; Carrera 43A No 1-50; www.colomboworld.com) The two locations both sell English-language books, including Lonely Planet titles. The downtown site also has a large lending library you can join, and the El Poblado location shows free English-language movies Monday at 7pm in the adjacent food court.
Panamericana (Map, 448 0999; up127@panamericana.com.co; Carrera 43A No 6S-150; 9:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7:30pm Sun) This huge bookstore sells some English titles. It also sells maps of Medellín, plus laptops and accessories.
COMPUTER STORES
CC Monterrey (Map; 268 0100; Carrera 48 No 10-45) Scores of small computer shops sell digital equipment at budget prices.
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Getting There & Away
AIR
Medellín has two airports. All international flights depart from Aeropuerto José María Córdoba, 35km southeast of the city near the town of Ríonegro. Avianca domestic flights depart from here, including its frequent shuttle service to Bogotá. Buses shuttle between the city center (behind the Hotel Nutibara) and the airport every 15 minutes (COP$6000, one hour, 4am to 10pm), or take a taxi (COP$48,000).
The smaller Aeropuerto Olaya Herrera is situated next door to the southern bus terminal. Many domestic flights leave from here, including Satena’s service from Medellín to the Pacific coast.
BUS
Medellín has two bus terminals. The Northern Bus Terminal (Terminal de Norte), 3km north