Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [176]
La Casa Familiar Garcia, the oldest and biggest house in Guatapé, is still occupied by descendents of the Garcia family, but they leave their front door open so you can wander into the central courtyard. Take note of the ornate, painted folding doors as you enter. Very typical of Guatapé.
The Iglesia del Calma boasts a Greco-Roman exterior and a polished wood interior. It was built in 1811 as a form of penance, or so the story goes, by a man who killed an orange thief.
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Activities
BOATING
Three boating companies can take you out onto the water. The standard tours include a trip to La Cruz (the submerged tip of the church the lake now covers), a trip to La Piedra (an impressive sight from the water) and to the Isla de las Fantasias. A luxury resort was under construction on the island when we visited, and you can go for a walk around the perimeter.
The larger boats serve beer and have a dance floor. All the tours take around two hours return. The larger boats charge around COP$10,000 per person, with beer costing a mere COP$2000; smaller boats cost COP$80,000 (maximum 8 people). You can also charter a boat for the same price. Pablo Escobar’s old holiday home sits out on the lake, abandoned for more than 15 years; some people like to visit it.
CANOPYING
A canopy ride ( 861 1083; per ride COP$10,000; 9am-6pm) at the shore of the lake runs tourists in a bucket seat across to a large hill on the opposite side. This exhilarating activity is known as cable vuelo in this area.
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Sleeping
There are plenty of good accommodations options in town. Prices halve during the week.
El Descanso del Arriero ( 861 0878, 312 257 6953; Calle 30 No 28-82; s/d COP$35,000/57,000) The best budget option in Guatapé is just one block from the main plaza. It’s an old colonial building with shutters opening onto an interior courtyard; all rooms are on the second floor. A restaurant on-site has a good view of a park.
Guatatur ( 861 1212, 312 295 3199; www.hotelguatatur.fincasagroturisticas.com; hotelguatatur@hotmail.com; Calle 31-04; s/d COP$65,000/76,000; ) This modestly priced resort specializes in weekend package deals for Medellín couples. Several of the rooms have views of the lake, and the suites have Jacuzzis and even better views. Staff can organize boat trips, horseback riding, jet skis and visits to the nearby monastery. The best hotel in the center of town.
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Eating
There’s no shortage of good eats in Guatapé, centered mainly around or near the plaza.
La Fogata ( 861 1040, 310 822 0241; www.geocities.com/lafogataguatape; Av El Malecón; mains COP$5500-8500) Right opposite the lake with a view of the water and the boats, this place does amazing paísa food, including breakfast (COP$4500) if you stay the night. Go for the trucha (trout), or if you’re really hungry, a bandeja paísa. It also rents rooms upstairs.
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Getting There & Away
If you’re coming on a day trip, it makes sense to climb El Peñol before venturing onward to Guatapé, as it can get cloudy and rain in the afternoon. Buses to and from Medellín run about once an hour. There are both buses (COP$10,000, two hours) and shared taxis (COP$14,500, 1½ hours).
On weekends and holidays jeeps shuttle frequently between El Peñol and Guatapé (COP$3000, 10 minutes), but are rare during the week. Returning from Guatapé on the weekend be sure to buy your return ticket immediately upon arrival, as buses fill up fast. The ticket office is on the uphill side of the main plaza.
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EL PEÑOL
elev 2100m
El Peñol (aka La Piedra, ‘The Rock’; per climb COP$5000) is a 200m-high granite monolith set near the edge of a lake. A brick-and-mortar staircase of 649 steps rises up through a broad fissure in the side of the rock. From the