Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [182]
Regine’s Hotel ( 096 887 5360; Calle 65A No 23B-113; regineshotel@hotmail.com; s/d COP$109,000/133,000; ) This B&B-style family-run hotel offers boutique accommodations close to Cable Plaza. The upstairs rooms are much better than those downstairs, and cost the same. Breakfast and wi-fi are included in the price, and the outdoor garden patio is a great place to watch the sunrise.
Estelar Las Colinas ( 884 2009, 1 800 051 4000; www.hotelesestelar.com; Carrera 22 No 20-20; s/d COP$140,000/185,000; ) The poshest place in the center, this modern glass-and-concrete hotel isn’t pretty to look at but it has large, comfortable rooms, plus a good restaurant. Prices include a generous buffet breakfast. It was building a sister hotel adjacent to Cable Plaza at time of our visit.
Varuna Hotel ( 881 1122; Calle 62 No 23C-18; www.varunahotel.com; s/d COP$248,000/296,000, ste COP$303,000-391,000; ) A popular business traveler option, this shiny new hotel offers minimalist-style rooms with polished wood floors right on Av Santander, a short walk from Cable Plaza. It has cable TV, free wi-fi and a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. Ask for an upstairs room with a view.
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Eating
Carulla ( 8am-10pm) Full-service supermarket in Cable Plaza for those who want to cook.
La Suiza ( 885 0545; Carrera 23B No 64-06; mains COP$8000-12,000; 9:30am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7:30pm Sun) This scrumptious bakery does great pastries and even homemade chocolate. It also does good budget breakfasts, plus light lunches, such as mushroom crepes and chicken sandwiches. One block from Cable Plaza.
Valentino’s Gourmet ( 885 9471; Carrera 23 No 63-128; 10am-10pm) This small cafe, popular with students, does the best hot chocolate in town. Choose from 20 different espresso and cappuccino styles, and gourmet chocolates too.
Los Geranios ( 886 8738; Carrera 23 No 71-67, Milan; mains COP$14,400-16,900) Famous for its large portions of traditional Colombian food, this place is great if you’re hungry or just fueling up for a late night. The menu includes bandeja paísa, five kinds of sancocho, ajiaco, steak, chicken and even a few fish dishes. Meals come with five different kinds of sauce. For dessert try a yummy ice-cream sundae. The place is decorated with miniature models of Colombian churches and a loud TV accompanies your meal.
Don Juaco ( 885 0610; Calle 65 No 23A-44; 10:30am-9:30pm) Right in the heart of the zona rosa, this popular restaurant faces the main drag and is always full. The sign says ‘snaks’ but we can’t figure out why. It does great burgers, and the lunch special is excellent value – cazuela de pollo (think chicken pot pie without the pastry), with bread, salad, dessert and coffee for COP$14,000.
Club Manizales ( 884 1611; Carrera 23 No 25-60C; mains COP$18,000-33,000; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) The public dining room of this private club is one of the best places to eat in the city. The specialty is seafood – try the langostinos al whisky (king prawns in whiskey, COP$33,000), jaibas thermidor (crab thermidor, COP$18,000) or the trucha mediterraneo (trout with mushroom and shrimp sauce, COP$20,000). It has a decent wine list, and cocktails are a mere COP$7500.
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Drinking & Entertainment
The main zona rosa is along Av Santander near Cable Plaza. There are several viejotecas (nightclubs for patrons 30 and over) near the bullring, 1km southwest of the center. For a drink with a view there are a few estancos (small liquor shop with outdoor tables) in Chipre near the mirador.
Thursday is a big night in Manizales, when many of the students party hearty before heading home for the weekend to visit their families. Note that many nightclubs