Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [194]
Immediately adjacent to Panaca across a footbridge is the four-star all-inclusive resort Decameron Panaca ( 758 2204, 1 800 051 0765; r per person COP$216,000). It feels just like a Caribbean resort – king-sized beds, big swimming pools, evening shows, themed restaurants – except there’s no beach. Staff can organize tours throughout the region and can arrange English-speaking tour guides.
To get here, take any bus from Armenia to Quimbaya (COP$2000, 45 minutes). Shared taxis leave from Quimbaya’s main square when full (COP$3000, 10 minutes).
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Parque Nacional Del Café
6 / elev 1300m
This theme park ( 741 7417; www.parquenacionaldelcafe.com; Km6 Via Montenegro; admission COP$17,000-45,000; 9am-4pm Wed-Sun) has surprisingly little to do with coffee, but does have a rollercoaster and a waterslide. There’s a small coffee museum, bumper cars and a horse-riding trail. At the entrance is an 18m-lookout tower that has great views over Armenia. There’s also a short nature trail that zigzags downhill to the river and loops though a number of attractions, including a traditional coffee plantation, a cemetery for the local Quimbaya people, and a big stand of bamboo. A cable car offers bird’s-eye views of the park, and links the museum with a re-creation of a typical Quindian town. Don’t bother to come if it’s raining, as most attractions are outdoors.
Buses depart Armenia bus terminal every 15 minutes (COP$1400, 30 minutes, 7am to 7:10pm). Not all buses return to the terminal; they may just drop you in town.
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SALENTO
6 / pop 3500 / elev 1900m
Set amid gorgeous green mountains 24km east of Armenia, this small town survives on coffee production, trout farming and, increasingly, tourists, who are drawn by its quaint streets, typical paísa architecture, and proximity to the spectacular Valle de Cocora. It was founded in 1850, and is one of the oldest (and possibly the smallest) town in Quindío.
The main drag is Calle Real (Carrera 6), full of artesanías, restaurants and internet cafes. At the end of the street are stairs leading up to Alto de la Cruz, a hill topped with a cross. From here you’ll see the verdant Valle de Cocora and the mountains that surround it. If the skies are clear (usually only early in the morning), you can spot the snowcapped tops of the volcanoes on the horizon.
For even better views, walk 200m past the El Portal de Cocora (see opposite) and look for the blue gate on your left to Chalet Mundo Nuevo ( 759 3394). This small hotel, built on a spit of land that juts out into the adjacent valley, gives you amazing views in both directions. Ask nicely and you’ll be allowed to linger amid the flowers and views.
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Information
Banco Agrario de Colombia (in the main square) The only ATM in town. Sketchy reliability.
Nef-sistem.net ( 312 212 6153; cnr Carrera 1 & Calle 6; per hr COP$1800) Internet; near the fire station.
Real.net ( 759 3458; Calle Real No 4-24; per hr COP$2000)
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Activities
TEJO
There’s a small cancha de tejo (Carrera 4 Calle 3-32). Go throw rocks at gunpowder (Click here). You know you want to.
HORSEBACK RIDING
Álvaro Gomez ( 096 759 3343, 311 375 8293) gets good reviews. He offers trips to several nearby waterfalls, along an old, unfinished railway track, plus a longer day trip up into Cocora. He charges COP$25,000 to COP$30,000 per person for a half-day trip, more for night tours or trips to Valle de Cocora.
COFFEE FARMS (FINCAS)
There are three nearby coffee farms (fincas) you can visit. Plantation House owns a small finca a short walk from the hostel, and is one of the few places that does tours (COP$4000) in English. Nearby traditional growers Don Elías and Don Gustavo also offer similar tours in Spanish (COP$5000). Ask at your hotel for details on how to tee up a tour with either of them.
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Sleeping
Plantation House ( 316 285 2603, 315 409 7039; Calle 7 No 1-04;