Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [196]
The most popular walk is the 2½ hour walk to the Reserva Natural Acaime (Map; admission COP$2000). As you arrive in Cocora the trail is on the right-hand side as you walk into the valley and away from Salento. The well-signposted trail starts in Cocora by a blue gate and a shop and goes down past the trout farm. The first part of the trail is through grassland and wax palm. The second part of the trail is through cloud forest. At Acaime there are basic accommodations, and you can usually get a hot chocolate (with cheese) here. You’ll also see plenty of hummingbirds feeding.
About 1km before you reach Acaime there’s a turnoff to the La Montaña ranger post. A more difficult path leads directly from Acaime to La Montaña (one hour), if you want to do the loop, and the views from here and the trail back down to Cocora are spectacular. From La Montaña to Cocora is 1½ hours downhill.
Longer walks are possible in the national park, staying with local farmers. Inquire at Plantation House for more information. It is possible to go to Acaime on horseback, though a guide is recommended – horses without a guide have been known to refuse to cross the rivers!
Jeeps leave Salento’s main square for the small hamlet of Cocora (COP$3000, one hour), where there is a trout farm and a few tiendas (shops) selling snacks and drinks. There are four departures during the week, more on the weekend. You can also contract a jeep privately (COP$24,000). Go early.
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Cali & Southwest Colombia
* * *
CALI
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
COURSES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND CALI
PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL (PNN) FARALLONES DE CALI
PANCE
LAGO CALIMA
DARIÉN
CAUCA & HUILA
POPAYÁN
COCONUCO
SILVIA
SAN AGUSTÍN
TIERRADENTRO
NARIÑO
PASTO
AROUND PASTO
IPIALES
SANTUARIO DE LAS LAJAS
DESIERTO DE LA TATACOA
VILLAVIEJA
* * *
The southwestern corner of Colombia is a diverse region. Sweaty Cali, famous for its salsa nightclubs, is a bustling metropolis, and well worth a visit. Colonial Popayán boasts some of the finest architecture in the country. Eastward lie the archaeological ruins of Tierradentro and San Agustín, set amid jaw-dropping scenery, and the anomalous Desierto de la Tatacoa. Southward there’s Pasto, a surprisingly hip town a few hours from the border, and Santuario de Las Lajas, a cathedral built across a breathtaking gorge just a short taxi ride from Ecuador.
Cali is the biggest city here. While it’s nearly the same size as Medellín, it is often overlooked by travelers. It’s a city eager to make friends – in addition to its many nightclubs, it also has funky cafes in the old colonial neighborhood of San Antonio, and the dining district of Granada is not to be missed. Cali is also a great base for hikes into the surrounding area.
Archaeological buffs should be sure to check out San Agustín and Tierradentro, Colombia’s two most important archaeological sites. While the ruins themselves may not be King Tut’s tomb, they are set amid stunning panoramas of Andean beauty. Halfway between San Agustín and Bogotá, outside the sleepy river port of Neiva, you’ll find the Desierto de la Tatacoa, a small cactus-clad region with an observatory – come for the stargazing and sleep in the desert.
On the march to Ecuador you’ll come to frequently ignored Pasto, the source of many Colombian jokes. While it does have a noticeable Ecuadorean influence, there are still good restaurants and bars, and every January the town goes crazy with its Festival de Blanco y Negro – a must if you’re passing through. Finally, don’t miss the Santuario de Las Lajas when you cross the border – it really is as spectacular as the photos