Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [200]
Calle del Arte (Sep) San Antonio hosts this street-closing festival with live music, artesanías (local craft stalls), theater, dance and food.
Festival Internacional de Blues (May) Organized by the Centro Cultural Colombo Americano (www.colomboamericano.edu.co). Attracts an international crowd of Latino blues musicians.
Festival de Música del Pacífico Petronio Álvarez (Aug) A festival of Pacific music, heavily influenced by the African rhythms brought by the many slaves that originally populated the Pacific coast.
Festival Mundial de Salsa (Sep; www.festivalsalsacali.com) Don’t miss this one. Amazing dancers.
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SLEEPING
For a taste of Cali’s colonial past, lay your head in San Antonio.
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Budget
La Casa Café ( 893 7011; lacasacafecali.blogspot.com; Carrera 6 No 2-13, San Antonio; r per person COP$15,000; ) This groovy cafe-bar Click here with internet also rents pleasant private rooms on the 2nd floor of this colonial building. Two have quiet street views of San Antonio. The four rooms share one bathroom. Sometimes hosts art exhibitions and live music downstairs.
Guest House Iguana ( 660 8937; www.iguana.com.co; Av 9N No 22N-46; dm COP$16,000, s/d without bathroom COP$26,000/34,000, s/d COP$32,000/40,000; ) The largest hostel in Cali, the Swiss-owned Iguana has moved from its decade-long digs into two nearby houses. Both stretch down the side of a hill, offering good views of the city. One houses private rooms, the other dorms; both have kitchens. Walking distance to the restaurants in Granada and Chipichape.
Calidad House ( 661 2338; www.calidadhouse.com; Calle 17N No 9AN-39; dm/s/d COP$17,000/21,000/35,000; ) This otherwise fine hostel has a reputation with travelers for somewhat unfriendly service. But it’s been around many years and will most likely be around many more. A handy last resort if everything else is full.
Café Tostaky ( 893 0651; www.cafetostaky.blogspot.com; Carrera 10 No 1-76; dm/s/d without bathroom COP$18,000/22,000/30,000; ) This French-owned hostel is right in the heart of San Antonio. All the rooms have shared bathroom. There’s a kitchen you can use, plus there’s free internet and cable TV. Downstairs it runs a groovy cafe (open 5pm to 11pm) that serves crepes and good coffee. Worth visiting even if you’re not staying here.
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Midrange
Posada San Antonio ( 893 7413; www.posadadesanantonio.com; Carrera 5 No 3-37; s/d/tr/q COP$55,000/70,000/105,000/140,000; ) Right in the heart of San Antonio, this old colonial building surrounds a pleasant courtyard. All have private bath and cable TV, and breakfast is included in the price. There’s no air-con, but the upper third of the doors open separately, letting the air circulate while you sleep.
Hotel Pensión Stein ( 661 4927; www.hotelstein.com.co; Av 4N No 3-33; s with fan/air-con COP$110,000/140,000, d with fan COP$125,000-138,000, d with air-con COP$152,000-175,000; ) This castlelike stone mansion is a bit of Bavaria in the tropics. Think heavy wood beams and doors, decorative collector plates on the walls, and old-world upholstery in the sitting room. There’s a small pool serenaded by a muzak-playing stereo. Breakfast is included.
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Top End
Casa de Alférez ( 661 8111; www.sofitel.com.br; Av 9N No 9-24; s incl breakfast COP$433,000-540,000, d incl breakfast COP$454,000-561,000; ) This ultraluxurious five-star hotel offers rooms with king-sized feather beds. Huge French windows open onto small balconies on a lovely, tree-lined street. The excellent restaurant downstairs is open to the public. Rates include a buffet breakfast.
Hotel Intercontinental ( 882 3225; www.intercontinental.com; Av Colombia No 2-72; s/d COP$450,000/550,000, ste COP$520,000-1,300,000; ) This landmark hotel sits right on the Río Cali, on the border of San Antonio. Its nine floors offer all the creature comforts, including