Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [204]
CC La Pasarela (www.lapasarela.net; Av 5AN No 23DN-68) is a two-story shopping center that’s elbow-to-elbow computers and parts. You’ll find great prices on laptops and repairs; highly recommended is La Bodeguita ( 667 6637).
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Aeropuerto Palmaseca ( 666 3200) is 16km northeast of the city, off the road to Palmira. Minibuses between the airport and the bus terminal run every 10 minutes until about 8pm (COP$3000, 30 minutes), or take a taxi (around COP$50,000).
Avianca offer frequent shuttle services to Bogotá. Satena flies to Ipiales on the border, and to Guapi on the coast. LAN Peru flies nonstop to Lima, and Tame flies to Esmeraldas, Ecuador. There are also international flights to Miami and Madrid.
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GETTING AROUND
Cali’s new air-conditioned electric bus network, the Mio (www.metrocali.gov.co), will remind many of Bogotá’s TransMilenio. It was still being rolled out when we visited but is largely operational. The main route will run from north of the bus terminal along the river, through the center and down the entire length of Av Quinta (Av 5). Other routes will spread out across the city over the coming years. Ticket price at time of research was COP$1500 per ride.
The bus terminal ( 668 3655) is 2km north of the center. It’s a sweaty walk in Cali’s heat – take the Mio, or a taxi (COP$3000 to COP$5000).
Buses run regularly to Bogotá (COP$65,000, 12 hours), Medellín (COP$42,000, nine hours) and Pasto (COP$60,000, nine hours). Pasto buses will drop you off in Popayán (COP$17,000, three hours) and there are also hourly minibuses to Popayán (COP$20,000, 2½ hours). There are regular departures to Armenia (COP$15,000, four hours), Pereira (COP$18,000, four hours) and Manizales (COP$24,000, five hours).
AROUND CALI
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PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL (PNN) FARALLONES DE CALI
This 150,000-hectare national park (www.farallonesdecali.com) protects the headlands around Cali. There are numerous one-day and multiday hikes in the park you can do, including Pico Pance and Pico de Loro. The gateway to the park is the small holiday town of Pance.
Closed for many years due to La Violencia, the national park was tendering for a concession-holder at time of our research, and should be open again by the time you read this.
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PANCE
2 / pop 2000 / elev 1550m
This small holiday town in the mountains is full of holiday fincas (farms). The weather is a pleasantly cool change from the heat of Cali. On the weekend its one street opens and all the bars and restaurants are in full flower. During the week it’s empty and you can’t even get a meal.
Come on the weekend, preferably Sunday, to eat and drink your way down the hill. You can also do a day hike to some nearby waterfalls, or organize the longer treks to Pico de Loro or Pico Pance.
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Activities
Pico de Loro is a seven-hour hike return from Pance. Pico Pance is three to four days; from the top it is said you can see Pasto and the Ecuadorean frontier.
Some opportunistic guides in Pance may try to rip you off. It’s best to avoid using them if possible. Your best bet is to join a group tour organized by Ecoaventura ( 893 7403; www.farallonesdecali.com/ecoaventura.htm), which owns a small campground with tents on the slopes of Pico Pance.
For Pico de Loro expect to pay COP$10,000 to COP$20,000 per person; for Pico Pance, COP$15,000 per person per day.
To visit the nearby waterfalls, walk 1km downhill from town to the bridge and turn right. Walk 3km uphill to El Topacio, the ruins of an old resort. The watchman will let you pass unofficially for COP$2000. It’s a 20-minute walk to the waterfalls. You don’t need a guide.
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Sleeping & Eating
Anahuac ( 331 4828, 315 407 2724; www.resevanaturalanahuac.com;