Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [216]
Little is known about the people who built the tombs and the statues. Most likely they were of different cultures, and the people who scooped out the tombs preceded those who carved the statues. Some researchers place the ‘tomb’ civilization somewhere between the 7th and 9th centuries AD, while the ‘statue’ culture appears to be related to the later phase of San Agustín development, which is estimated to have taken place some 500 years later.
Admission to the archaeological park ( 8am-4pm), museums and the tombs costs COP$7000 and is valid for two days.
BURIAL SITES & STATUES
You can visit all the burial sites in Tierradentro on a four-hour, 14km walk. The walk takes you through some spectacular scenery, and it’s well worth doing the entire loop. You can go either clockwise or counterclockwise. If you do it clockwise, you can’t start until 8am, when the guards arrive to unlock the tomb sites, but you get to walk downhill from Aguacate. On the other hand, you can start earlier by walking it in reverse, because the tombs aren’t locked at Aguacate, but you have a stiffer uphill climb at the beginning of the hike.
Going counterclockwise, a 20-minute walk uphill from the museums lies Segovia, the most important burial site. There are 28 tombs here, some with well-preserved decorations. Twelve of the tombs have electric lighting, which works only sporadically. The tombs are open 8am to 4pm.
A 15-minute walk uphill from Segovia brings you to El Duende, where there are four tombs, though their decoration hasn’t been preserved. From here it’s a 25-minute walk along the highway to El Tablón, which has nine crude, weather-worn stone statues, similar to those of San Agustín, excavated in the area and now thrown together under a single roof. The better preserved statues can be seen in the Museo Arqueológico. If you’re walking, be aware the site is poorly signposted; look up and to the left until you see the faded blue sign. You can also get to El Tablón from the main San Andrés road, which is well-signposted but muddy.
Continue into town. Next to the restaurant La Portada you’ll find the path to Alto de San Andrés, with four tombs; two have remarkably well-preserved paintings. Another tomb is closed to due damage from a 1994 earthquake. Another has caved in completely.
El Aguacate is the most remote burial site, but has the best views. From Alto de San Andres it’s a 1½-hour walk, then downhill another 1½ hours to the museum. There are a few dozen tombs, but most have been destroyed by guaqueros (tomb raiders). Only a few vaults still bear the remains of the original decoration.
MUSEUMS
It makes sense to visit the tombs in the morning, before the heat of the day unfolds. Finish your day at the two museums in the afternoon.
The Museo Arqueológico contains pottery urns used to keep the ashes of the tribal elders. Some of the urns are decorated with dotted patterns and, in some cases, with representations of animals. There are also miniature models of what the tombs may have looked like when they were freshly painted.
The Museo Etnográfico has utensils and artifacts of the Páez people, and exhibits from colonial times, including a trapiche (sugarcane grinder), bodoqueras (blow-dart guns) and traditional indigenous clothing.
SAN ANDRÉS DE PISIMBALÁ
A 25-minute walk uphill from the museums is this little town. There’s one good restaurant and a couple of tiendas (shops) selling snacks and drinks. The town is mildly famous for its thatched, white adobe church, which is often locked. A small artesanías shop sells miniature replicas of the church. There’s no internet or ATM.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sleeping
Half-a-dozen basic lodgings are clustered within the 500m stretch uphill of the museum. All charge COP$8000 to COP$15,000 for a room. One of the best budget options is Residencias y Restaurante Pisimbalá ( 311 612 4145), which has five rooms and also serves meals. The on-site tienda sells a locally made coca-flavored wine.
Other options include Hospedaje La María ( 312 803 8947), Residencias Lucerna,