Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [220]
Shared taxis to the lake (COP$3500, 45 minutes) leave from the corner of Carrera 21 and Calle 20 (Map) in Pasto during the week, and opposite the Al Kosto hardware store (cnr Calle 21 and Carrera 7; off Map) on weekends and holidays. Shared taxis seat four people; if you’re in a hurry, pay for all four seats (COP$14,000).
SLEEPING & EATING
Numerous hotels cater to romantic couples looking for a weekend away. The most spectacular is the Hotel Sindamanoy ( 721 8222; www.hotelsindamanoy.com; s/d/tr/ste COP90,000/105,000/115,000/125,000; ), whose faux–Swiss chalet facade you’ll see from Isla Corota. It has impressive views of the island and lake. The overall decor is a flashback to the ’70s – rooms have yellow carpet, stucco walls, and fake wood paneling, but many also have working fireplaces. The restaurant (mains COP$14,000 to COP$21,500) is the best place to eat in the area. By boat from the restaurants at the edge of the lake near the Río Encano, it’s COP$20,000 return if you’re coming just for lunch; from Pasto direct in a taxi you’ll pay around COP$15,000.
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Laguna Verde
You’ll see photos of this emerald green lake all over Pasto. It sits in the crater of the extinct Volcán Azufral (3800m), near Túquerres (3700m), a two-hour journey west of Pasto. Contact the tourist office in Pasto for the latest information on how to get here. You may be able to join an existing tour. Pasto-based guide Orfa Marina ( 730 4287, 315 511 7464; caminodelvientoTE@hotmail.com) sometimes organizes group outings (COP$50,000, minimum 20 people).
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VOLCÁN GALERAS
Just 8km from the center of Pasto, Volcán Galeras (4267m) continues to grumble and threaten. Its lower slopes are a patchwork of farms and bright green pastureland. There’s a lookout tower at the top, and on a clear day you can see as far as Tumaco and the Pacific coast.
The trail was officially closed to the public in 2006 due to seismic activity, although you may still be able to climb. Contact the helpful tourist office Click here in Pasto for the latest update.
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IPIALES
2 / pop 75,000 / elev 2900m
Only 7km from the border with Ecuador, Ipiales is an uninspiring commercial town driven by trade across the frontier. There is little to see or do here, except for the colorful Saturday market, where the campesinos (peasants) from surrounding villages come to buy and sell goods. A short side trip to the Santuario de Las Lajas is the real draw, though the Panamerican from Pasto is also thrilling.
Buses and shared taxis offer regular service from the Ipiales bus station to Rumichaca (COP$1400, 10 minutes).
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Information
Comcel ( 725 4392; Plaza la Pola; per hr COP$2000; 7am-10pm) Internet access and phone calls; on the main square.
Ecuadorean consulate ( 773 2292; Carrera 7 No 14-10; 8:30am-noon Mon-Fri)
HAEV Comunicaciones ( 773 3088; Carrera 7 No 15-27; per hr COP$1500; 7am-10pm) Internet access.
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Sleeping
There are few good reasons to spend the night in Ipiales. Pasto is a far nicer city, and those wanting to visit Las Lajas will find cheap, decent accommodations right next to the sanctuary (see opposite).
Hotel Belmonte ( 773 2771; Carrera 4 No 12-111; s/d COP$11,000/18,000) For a long time the backpackers’ choice in Ipiales, but we can’t figure out why. Think genteel, grandmotherly poverty but with electric shower heads and cable TV.
Hotel Metropól ( 773 7976; Carrera 2A No 6-10; s/d/tw COP$15,000/20,000/25,000) Just across the street from the main bus station, this concrete-block hotel has musty-smelling rooms with private bathroom. Also used by the hour by