Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [239]
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Amazon Basin
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LETICIA
TABATINGA (BRAZIL)
ISLA SANTA ROSA (PERU)
PARQUE NACIONAL NATURAL (PNN) AMACAYACU
PUERTO NARIÑO
RÍO YAVARÍ
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Amazon. The very word evokes images of pristine jungle, incredible wildlife and one famous river. The Amazon basin, which Colombians call Amazonia, is unimaginably massive. The 643,000-sq-km region accounts for a third of Colombia’s total area – about the size of California and larger than Germany. Visitors can never quite account for the strange exhilaration they feel when they come face-to-face with the rainforest for the first time.
With transportation mainly limited to the rivers that crisscross the jungle, indigenous locals have been able to keep their cultures more or less intact. The region remains an ethnic and linguistic mosaic, with more than 50 languages (not counting dialects) belonging to some 10 linguistic families.
Unfortunately, isolation has also made Amazonia a hotbed for cultivation of the coca plant and cocaine production. The canopied jungle provides a natural hideout for leftist guerrillas. Despite recent Colombian military success stories, rebels still control parts of Guaviare, Caquetá and Putumayo departments.
Fortunately, tourist-friendly Amazonas is one of the safest departments in Colombia. It sits on a quirky strip of land that penetrates Brazil and Peru, and was not part of Colombia until 1922. From Leticia you can venture up and down the river to explore the rainforest, kayak alongside pink dolphins or just chill out in a hammock and sleep to the sounds of the jungle. The allure of the Amazon is an experience you won’t soon forget.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Sample the tender Amazonian fish known as the pirarucú at one of the pleasant outdoor restaurants in Leticia
Be serenaded by parrots in the rainforest of Parque Nacional Natural Amacayacu
Stroll through the car-free, sustainable remote village of charming Puerto Nariño
Kayak alongside pink dolphins through the warm waters of the mighty Lago Tarapoto
Slip silently into the jungle by canoe up the tributaries of the Río Yavarí
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LETICIA
8 / pop 37,000 / elev 95m
As the capital city of the Amazonas province, Leticia is the largest city for hundreds of miles yet still looks and feels very much like a small frontier town. It’s located on the Amazon River at the crossroads – or more accurately, the cross river – point where Colombia, Brazil and Peru meet. Leticia is located more than 500 miles from the nearest Colombian highway. Yet despite its isolation, Leticia is a remarkable little border town with brightly painted houses, pleasant outdoor cafes and restaurants and a wide selection of hotels.
Leticia was founded in 1867 as San Antonio. The origin of its current name has been lost to history. In any case, it was part of Peru until 1922 when both countries signed a controversial agreement that ceded the land to Colombia. In 1932 a small war broke out between Colombia and Peru, finally ending in 1933 after the League of Nations negotiated a cease-fire, ultimately awarding Leticia to Colombia. In the 1970s Leticia became lawless hub of narcotics trafficking until the Colombian army moved in and cleaned things up.
Today, a long-standing military presence keeps the city and surrounding region safe. The most dangerous part of your trip may be dodging the swarms of motorcyclists who disregard traffic laws and pedestrians. Visitors can freely move between Leticia and its sister city of Tabatinga, in Brazil, plus the Peruvian island of Santa Rosa. Travelers wishing to venture further into either country must meet immigration requirements.
The best time to visit is July