Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [241]
The Galería Arte Indígena ( 592 7056; Calle 8 No 10-35; 9am-noon & 3-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun) is Leticia’s largest craft shop selling artifacts from local indigenous groups. At the back of the shop is Museo Uirapuru featuring an exhibition of historic crafts (not for sale).
A visit to Parque Santander just before sunset makes for an impressive spectacle as you witness thousands of small screeching pericos (parrots) arriving for their nightly rest in the park’s trees.
Some 11km from downtown, you’ll find the Serpentario Nacional Amero ( 592 6692; www.nativa.org; Km11 Via Tarapacá; admission adult/child COP$7000/5000; 8am-4pm) where you can get up close and personal with boas, anacondas and other slithery creatures on show at this snake sanctuary. Take a taxi or the bus (COP$2500) from Parque Orellana.
Let’s face it! You’re never too old to climb a tree. At Reserva Tanimboca ( 592 7679, 310 774 5919; Km8 Via Tarapacá; 6am-6pm) visitors can monkey around atop 35m high trees, then slide 80m along zip lines from one tree to another through the beautiful forest canopy (COP$60,000). Other activities include kayaking (COP$20,000) and nocturnal jungle hikes (COP$150,000). Or splurge for an overnight stay in a treehouse (s/d/tr COP$150,000/COP$200,000/COP$300,000).
Isla de Los Micos, located 35km north upstream from Leticia, is a 450-hectare island reserve of birds, giant Victoria Regia water lilies and thousands of capuchin monkeys. It was founded by American entrepreneur Mike Tsalickis, who built a small tourism empire in Leticia until he was caught in 1989 trying to smuggle 3000kg of cocaine into the US. A few vendors on the island sell snacks and crafts. Any of the tour guides (below) can arrange a day trip to the island.
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Tours
The real jungle begins well off the Amazon proper, along its small tributaries. The deeper you go, the more chance you have to observe wildlife in relatively undamaged habitats and to visit indigenous settlements. This involves time and money, but the experience can be rewarding. A three- to four-day tour is perhaps the best way to balance the cost of the trip with the insight it will give you into the workings of the jungle. Several companies also organize multiday tours to the small nature reserves along the Río Yavarí on the Brazil–Peru border. Always agree on price, activities and duration before embarking on your trip. Avoid any unsolicited tour guides who approach you in the airport or streets.
Two highly experienced guides we recommend are Enrique ‘Kike’ Arés of Omshanty ( 311 489 8985; www.omshanty.com) and Felipe Ulloa of Selvaventura ( 311 287 1307; selvaventura@gmail.com). Both speak English and Spanish; Felipe also speaks Portuguese. They can arrange pretty much whatever your heart desires.
Also recommended:
Amazon Jungle Trips ( 592 7377; amazonjungletrips@yahoo.com; Av Internacional No 6-25) With 20 years of experience, Amazon Jungle is one of the oldest and most reliable tour companies in Leticia. Owner Antonio Cruz Pérez speaks English and can arrange individually tailored tours including trips to their Reserva Natural Zacambú in Río Yavarí.
Tanimboca ( 310 827 9412, 321 207 9909; Carrera 10 No 11-69) In addition to the activities at Reserva Tanimboca, the friendly folks here can organize boat or hiking trips into the jungle outside Leticia, including trips to indigenous villages. The owner and several of the guides speak English.
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Sleeping
Note that prices can skyrocket during high season, especially around Christmas and Easter.
BUDGET
Mahatu Jungle Hostel ( 311 539 1265; www.mahatu.com; Carrera 7 No 9-69; dm per person COP$15,000, s/d COP$25,000/30,000; ) An urban jungle in the heart