Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [244]
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THE SLOW BOAT TO BRAZIL
Traveling by boat may not be the fastest way to get around, but it’s one of the most rewarding ways to experience real life on the Amazonas. These bare-bone boats are the main mode of transportation on the Amazon River, and are often packed to the gills with humans, cargo and sometimes animals.
Note that these are not luxury cruise ships. Tickets are relatively cheap, and include all on-board meals. You should bring your own snacks, bottled water and spending money; ship stores sell beer and snacks. It’s a long journey, so bring a good book and any other little luxuries that will make your trip more comfortable. Note these boats can get very crowded.
To organize your trip, head down to the Porto Fluvial a day or two in advance and ask around to find the next boat to Manaus. Board the boat and inform the crew you want to join them. Boats come to Tabatinga one or two days before their scheduled departure back down the river. You can string up your hammock or occupy the cabin as soon as you’ve paid the fare, saving on hotels. Food, however, is only served after departure. Beware of theft on board.
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Note there are no roads out of Iquitos into Peru. You have to fly or continue by river to Pucallpa (five to seven days), from where you can go overland to Lima.
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Getting Around
The main mode of public transport is by moto-taxi, the big red motorcycles that zip around town without a care in the world. The base rate is COP$1000. Hang on tight! Frequent colectivos (COP$1000 to COP$5000) link Leticia with Tabatinga and the ‘Kilometer’ villages north of Leticia’s airport. Standard taxis can be quite expensive; a short ride to the airport can set you back COP$15,000.
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TABATINGA (BRAZIL)
97 / pop 45,300 / elev 95m
This gritty, unattractive border town doesn’t have much to offer in terms of tourist attractions. Most visitors are only here to catch a boat to Manaus or Iquitos, or on a quick border-hop just to say they’ve been to Brazil. While distinctly less pleasant than Leticia, you might consider staying here if you’re taking an early-morning boat to Iquitos. For visa information Click here and for information on getting there and away, see opposite. Prices listed below are in Colombian pesos, which are widely accepted in Tabatinga. Brazil’s telephone country code is +55.
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Sleeping
Avoid the hotels near the border; some of them double as brothels.
International Bagpacker Hostel ( 3412 3846, 312 585 8855; amazondiscover@hotmail.com; Rue Pedro Texeira No 9; dm per person COP$15,000, s/d COP$25,000/35,000) Calling this place ‘basic’ would be an overstatement. But it’s conveniently located just three blocks from Porta da Feira, perfect if you’re catching an early boat.
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Eating & Drinking
Restaurante Tres Fronteiras do Amazonas ( 3412 2341; Rua Rui Barbosa; mains COP$9000-20,000 9am-11pm) This attractive palm-thatched open-air restaurant offers a wide choice of fish and meat dishes, plus a selection of drinks, including caipirinhas (the national cocktail of Brazil made with limes, sugar and cachaça, a Brazilian version of rum). The food is straightforward, but hearty and delicious.
Churrascaria Tia Helena ( 3412 2165; Rua Marechal Mallet 12; all you can eat COP$22,000; lunch & dinner) At this delicious all-you-can-eat restaurant, waiters bring skewered meats directly from the grill, and carve them up at the table in classic Brazilian fashion. The place is no-frills; think cement floors and fluorescent lights.
Scandalos ( 9152 8777; www.portaltabatinga.com.br/scandalos.htm; cnr Avenida da Amizade & Rua Pedro Texeira; 10pm-late Fri & Sat) Located about five blocks from the border, this is the best nightclub in the region, attracting a young, sexy crowd dancing till dawn. Live music most Saturdays.
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ISLA SANTA ROSA