Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [267]
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Classes
Most intercity buses are air-conditioned and have good leg room. On shorter routes (less than four hours), smaller busetas ply their trade. There are sometimes also vans, which cost more but are faster. In remote country areas, where the roads are bad, ancient chivas (many former US school buses) service smaller towns, picking up and dropping off passengers along the way.
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Costs
Bus travel is reasonably cheap in Colombia. As a rule of thumb, buses cost around COP$4000 per hour of travel. Outside of peak holiday times, bus prices are almost always negotiable. Start with a polite, ‘hay discuento?’ (Is there a discount?), then work your way down the counters, indicating what the previously quoted fare was. You want to take the second-to-cheapest offer; there’s usually something wrong with the cheapest bus.
When you get on a bus out on the road, you pay the fare to the ayudante (driver’s sidekick) and rarely get a ticket. Ayudantes have been known to charge gringos more than the actual fare or at least to round the price up. Ask other passengers beforehand to be sure of the correct fare.
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Reservations
Outside of peak holiday periods (like Christmas and Easter), reservations are not needed. Just rock up to the bus station an hour before you want to leave and grab the first bus going. On some minor routes, where there are only a few departures a day, it’s worth considering buying your ticket several hours before the scheduled departure.
A common trick, especially with smaller buses, is to say they only need one passenger to leave, then they lock your bag in the back and you end up waiting an hour for the bus to leave, watching other buses leave before you do. Don’t get into the bus or pay until you see the driver start the engine and prepare to leave.
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CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Considering how cheap and extensive bus transport is in Colombia, there is little reason to bring your own vehicle. What’s more, the security situation remains dodgy in remote and rural parts of the country, substantially increasing the risk of vehicle theft and/or assault in isolated parts of the country. Check government websites for warnings before setting out anywhere remote.
In the cities, on the other hand, traffic is heavy, chaotic and mad. Driving ‘manners’ are wild and unpredictable. It takes some time to get used to the local style of driving, but even if you master it, the risk of an accident remains high.
Colombians drive on the right-hand side of the road and there are seat belt requirements, so buckle up or risk a fine. The speed limit is 60km per hour in the city and 80km per hour on the highway. The nationwide highway police telephone number is 767.
If you do plan to drive in Colombia, bring your driver’s license. The driver’s license from your country will normally do, but if you want to be 100% sure, bring along an International Driving Permit as well.
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Bring Your Own Vehicle
There’s no way of bringing your vehicle to South America other than by sea or air, involving time, substantial cost and a lot of paperwork. You’ll spend less (and be safer) traveling in Colombia by bus.
If you really wish to bring your car from Central America to Colombia, there are cargo boats between Colón (Panama) and Cartagena. There is no set schedule and no set price for shipping a car, so bargain hard. On arrival in Colombia the car is given a one- or two-month permit. You will require international insurance: local insurance policies are not expensive, but you cannot buy them for a car that has foreign plates.
Several of the sailboats that ply the route via the San Blas Islands to Panama can carry motorcycles.
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Rental