Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [42]
He said in a 2007 PBS documentary that Bogotá in the ‘80s and early ‘90s was brutal. ‘I’ve never known a city where people hated their city so much. It’s changed beyond my dreams.’
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Northern Bogotá is known as the wealthiest part of the city. The north, more or less, begins 2km north of Centro Internacional. A scene of theaters, antique shops and many gay bars, the sprawling Chapinero (roughly between Carrera 7 and Av Caracas, from Calle 40 to Calle 72 or so) is scruffier than areas further north, beginning with Zona G, a pint-sized strip of high-end eateries (east of Carrera 7 and Calle 80). Ten blocks north, lively Zona Rosa (or Zona T; stemming from the ‘T-shaped’ pedestrian mall between Carreras 12 and 13, at Calle 82A) is a zone of clubs, malls and hotels. A more sedate version – with many restaurants – rims the ritzier Parque 93 (Calle 93 between Carreras 11A & 13), part of the Chicó neighborhood, and the one-time pueblo plaza at Usaquén (corner Carrera 6 and Calle 119). The rather unappealing modern buildings of the so-called ‘financial district’ line Calle 100 between Av 7 and Carrera 11.
The most popular links between the center and north are Carrera Séptima (Carrera 7) and Carrera Décima (Carrera 10), crowded with many busetas (small buses). Another, Av Caracas (which follows Carrera 14, then Av 13 north of Calle 63) is the major north–south route for the TransMilenio bus system. Calle 26 (or Av El Dorado) leads west to the airport.
The working-class barrios of Bogotá looming far south and west from La Candelaria have (occasionally well-deserved) dodgier reputations.
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Maps
Maps are a problem in Colombia. Most aren’t much good. For Bogotá you’re best off with the freebies available from the tourist information centers. And if you’re traveling about the country using your own wheels, get the German Reise Kolumbien (1:1,400,000) before arriving. See www.reise-know-how.de for info.
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INFORMATION
Bookstores
There are plenty of bookstores both in the center and in the northern part of the city. Most of the books are in Spanish.
Authors (Map; 217 7788; Calle 70 No 5-23; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) An all-English bookstore fills two floors with a huge collection of novels, plus Lonely Planet guidebooks.
Librería Lerner (Map; 334 7826; Av Jiménez 4-35; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) A great bookstore in the center that stocks many Spanish-language guidebooks on Colombia, as well as the full gamut of maps, including the AutoGuía Turística de Colombia (a color, spiral-bound map/guide; COP$19,900), and the 12-map series of national routes Mapas de Ruta (sold individually for COP$1200, or as a packet for COP$13,000).
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BOGOTÁ IN
Two Days
Start in La Candelaria, with a snack at La Puerta Falsa, a look at Plaza de Bolívar then see sculptures of chubby bodies at the Museo Botero. Lunch at Quinua y Amaranto then walk over to take in Colombia’s golden past at Museo del Oro, and grab dinner in Macarena.
For a second day, you’ll want to ride up Monserrate for massive capital views, then taxi or bus north to a few neighborhoods good for walking between – Zona G, Zona Rosa and Parque 93, where you can shop, eat and salsa.
Four Days
Follow the two-day itinerary, then take a day trip to the salt cathedral at Zipaquirá – easily reached by public transport – or sacred lake of Guatavita. You can fit in both if you splurge on a taxi, stopping off at Andrés Carne de Res in Chía for a surreal dinner/dance night to top it off.
On the last day, check out Sunday flea markets. Usaquén has a nice one in a pueblo-style setting, while the City Center’s Mercado de San Alejo has coca leaves and is near Mirador Torre Colpatria with open-air views. Afterward grab a hot cup of canelazo (made with aguardiente, sugarcane, cinnamon and lime) in a cafe in La Candelaria, and stay up late at the low-key tango bar El Viejo Almacén.
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