Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [47]
The late-16th-century home that houses the Museo del 20 de Julio (Casa del Florero; Map; 282 6647; www.mincultura.gov.co, in Spanish; Calle 11 No 6-94; adult/student COP$3000/2000; 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) marks the spot where a ‘broken vase was heard around the world.’ Apparently. Just after Napoleon overcame Spain in 1810, a local Creole Antonio Morales came here, according to the story, and demanded an ornate vase from its Spanish owner José González Llorentes, which led to a fistfight on the street (plus one shattered vase, and some hurt feelings) – eventually spurring a rebellion.
Some staff smirk at the story (‘probably broke on purpose later to defend the story’ one staff member glibly guessed). But in these hallowed halls you can see the broken vase in question. One exhibit dares to ask ‘what would we be without the vase?’ Ponder the chilling concept while looking through the upstairs period-piece rooms with fun paintings of the era plus a small exhibit on women’s role in the struggle for independence.
MUSEO BOTERO & CASA DE MONEDA
This slightly confusing web of museums (Map; admission free; 9am-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun), run by the Banco de la Republicano, is easily one of Bogotá’s top attractions. Filling most of the block, you’ll find several overlapping collections, including the superb Museo Botero, a coin collection and two art collections.
Past a fountain-filled courtyard and small store of Botero-themed wares you’ll find the location’s highlight, the Museo Botero (Map; 343 1331; www.lablaa.org/museobotero.htm; Calle 11 No 4-41). Set over two floors at the front of the building here are several halls dedicated to all things chubby: hands, oranges, women, mustached men, children, birds, violins, Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (FARC) leaders – all, of course, the robust paintings and sculptures of Colombia’s most famous artist, Fernando Botero. (Botero himself donated these works.) The collection also includes several works by Picasso, Chagall, Renoir, Monet, Pissarro and Miró, and hilarious sculptures by Dalí and Max Ernst.
Just behind is the Museo de Arte del Banco de la República (www.lablaa.org/museodearte.htm), past a wall-fountain and wine bar. It shows changing exhibits, and its auditorium hosts many free events.
At the west end of the block, you’ll find the historic Casa de Moneda (Mint; Map; www.lablaa.org; Calle 11 No 4-93), which now houses the Colección Numismática in most of its front two floors. The exhibits (with a bit of English) start with pre-Columbian exchanges of pots and lead chronologically to misshapen coins, the introduction of a centralized bank in 1880 and how the cute tree art on the current 500-peso coin was made in the late 1990s.
Behind the coins are the 10 halls of the Arte Colección, reached by overly elaborate ramps. Most of it sticks with modern splashes of oils by Colombian artists; the best, perhaps, are the giant figurative paintings by Luis Caballero (1943–95) on the first floor. A bit at odds with the rest are the two first-floor halls towards the east, focusing on 17th- and 18th-century religious objects, including two extraordinary custodias (monstrances). The largest was made of 4902g of pure gold encrusted with 1485 emeralds, one sapphire, 13 rubies, 26 diamonds, 168 amethysts, one topaz and 62 pearls. But who’s counting?
If art overload has left you in need of a coffee fix, there’s a Juan Valdéz cafe (Map) next door to the Museo Botero.
EAST ON CALLE 10
Up from the southeast corner of Plaza de Bolívar is a host of historical sights. Starting on the south side of Calle 10, the Iglesia de San Ignacio (Map; Calle 10 No 6-35) was begun by the Jesuits in 1610 and, although opened for worship in 1635, it was not completed until their expulsion in 1767. It was the largest church during colonial times and perhaps the most magnificent. It’s undergoing a long-winded renovation. Hopefully when it reopens visitors should be able to