Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [6]
Adventurous beach bums, this one’s for you. There are classic white-sand beaches, sure – but also a few surprises.
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THE SEE-(ALMOST)-EVERYTHING ROUTE Two Months / Bogotá to Bogotá
From Bogotá, head north to Villa de Leyva. Explore its cobbled streets and enjoy its colonial charm for a couple of days, then visit San Gil for hiking and rafting, making time on the way for historic Barichara. Passing through Girón and Bucaramanga, continue on to check out quaint Mompox. Next stop: Cartagena, the jewel of the Caribbean. You’ll need a week to explore this exquisite colonial city, along with Santa Marta and other attractions on the Caribbean coast. Time permitting, Cartagena is also the jumping-off point for a jaunt to the islands of San Andrés and Providencia.
From the Caribbean, bus your way south to Medellín, with a quick detour to colonial Santa Fe de Antioquia. Next head south to the Zona Cafetera and enjoy some time in the nature reserves around Manizales and the Valle de Cocora outside Salento.
Further south is Cali and the city’s sweaty, hopping salsa joints. Travel down through Popayán to the archaeological ruins at Tierradentro and San Agustín. Return to Bogotá via the Desierto de la Tatacoa, or continue south to Quito in Ecuador.
Plenty of time? This loop takes you through all the main tourist regions in Colombia. Numerous side trips are possible along this route. Careful, though – you could easily end up spending six months on this route instead of two!
ROADS LESS TRAVELED
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NOOKS & CRANNIES One Month / Cabo de la Vela to Santuario de Las Lajas
Follow this route to encounter the tucked away delights from Colombia’s northernmost tip to its southern border with Ecuador.
Start out east of Santa Marta at Cabo de la Vela, at the northern tip of South America, a striking landscape where the desert meets the sea. Head west to explore Cartagena, then southwest to tiny Capurganá, a cute beachside town some are calling the ‘next Taganga,’ set right on the border with Panama. Indulge in diving, beaching and jungle walks galore.
From here fly via Medellín to Bahía Solano on the Pacific coast, great during whale-watching season, and spend a few days on the spectacular rainy, gray beaches along this coastline, sandwiched between jungle and sea. There are fine, midrange ecolodges where you can surf and go diving near Bahía Solano, El Valle and Guachalito, near Nuquí.
From Nuquí fly to often-overlooked Pereira and party in the city’s thumping discotecas. Head east then south to the Desierto de la Tatacoa, a tiny desert between the mountains and river. The star-gazing is awesome.
Head south from here, past Cali and Popayán to Pasto, a pleasant town on the border with Ecuador. Be sure to visit nearby Laguna de la Cocha, and if Volcán Galeras ever stops grumbling, hike to the top of the volcano for views all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Finish off your trip with a visit to Santuario de Las Lajas, a striking cathedral built in the middle of a gorge near Ipiales, on the border with Ecuador.
Want to poke your nose where no one else goes, and still stay safe? Want to explore a little bit deeper your second time through? Consider the following sites.
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PACIFIC COAST Two to Three Weeks / Bahía Solano to Cali
Long off-limits due to La Violencia, the exotic Pacific coast is reopening as a tourist destination. It boasts tropical jungle, diving, whale-watching, world-class sportfishing and high surf. Black-sand beaches and heavy rainfall make for an unusual beach vacation.
Start your trip in Bahía Solano. Numerous nearby beach resorts can organize activities, including walks into the adjacent jungle. From Bahía Solano, head south to El Valle. During turtle season you can spot turtles laying eggs on the beach, and pay a visit to a biological research station. Hike south to the northern end of Ensenada de Utría and take a boat across to the national park’s visitors