Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [64]
The principal venue is the Estadio El Campín (Map; 315 8726; Carrera 30 No 57-60). Games are played on Wednesday night and Sunday afternoon. Tickets can be bought at the stadium before the matches (from COP$6000).
For international matches, check with Federación Colombiana de Fútbol (www.colfutbol.org, in Spanish) for locations that sell tickets.
Bullfighting is invariably popular, with fights held at the Plaza de Toros de Santamaría (Map; cnr Carrera 6 & Calle 27) on most Sundays in January and February. Tickets are available from the bullring’s box office (from COP$20,000). The events bring the area to a standstill, while the bullring itself (a 1931 red-brick ring) often fills to capacity (14,500), or beyond.
Also consider a round of tejo Click here.
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SHOPPING
Locals are in love with the malls, but Sunday flea markets and the crusty Plaza de Mercado de Paloquemao are more inviting attractions. Also, look along Carrera 9, south of Calle 60, for Chapinero’s antique shops.
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Crafts & Souvenirs
Artesanías de Colombia (Map; 286 1766; www.artesaniasdecolombia.com.co; Carrera 3A No 18A-60; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) In a hacienda next to the Iglesia de las Aguas, this classy shop has higher-end crafts (lots of home accessories, plus purses, toys, hammocks and some clothing).
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TEJO!
Gunpowder, lead weights, alcohol? That’s a dream mix anywhere, and in Colombia, it’s perfectly legal. The rural tradition of tejo (a loud pre-Columbian game where 2kg weights are tossed to a clay pit to hit and explode gunpowder-filled triangular pieces of wax paper called mechas) goes indoors in Bogotá, particularly found in working-class districts of the south.
One classic tejo hall is Peperepe (Map; 289 1541; Calle 7 No 8-20; 11am-midnight Thu-Sat). A couple kilometers south of La Candelaria, this relatively cheerful place has four long lanes you use for free if you buy (minimum) one ‘box of beer’ (24 Poker beers, for COP$43,000). The open-view urinal allows those using the facilities (many of whom are tipsy gray-haired gents in suits) to keep watching the game, never mind the passing ladies (and gals do play).
The streets around the hall get dark and empty at night. Considering the lack of direct public transport, you’re best off taking a taxi.
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Artesanías El Balay (Map; Carrera 15 No 75-63; 9am-7:45pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7:45pm Sun) Up north, this is one of many Carrera 15 choices near Zona Rosa, with a huge room of handicrafts, plus a Colombia flag football (COP$27,000).
La Casona del Museo (Map; Calle 16 No 5-22/24; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun) By the Gold Museum, this old building houses a convenient, cheerful collection of nice souvenir stands (the best for handicrafts being Colombia es Bella on the second floor) and a nice cafe.
Pasaje Rivas (Map; cnr Carrera 10 & Calle 10) A couple of blocks west of Plaza de Bolívar, this nontouristy craft market is a good spot for cheap buys, including lots of straw hats, T-shirts, toy figurines, baskets and ruanas (Colombian ponchos). The entrance next to Iglesia de la Concepción reads ‘Pasaje Paul.’
San Miguel (Map; 243 6273; Calle 11 No 8-88; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Open for 70 years, and with many old-timers milling over new options, this classic hat maker is the best of the bunch on the block. Mostly felt fedoras or cowboy hats pressed before your eyes.
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Flea Markets
Sunday flea markets are great fun for old posters, souvenirs and various handicrafts. Most are held on holidays