Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [77]
Despite its changing face, Villa de Leyva remains an alluring destination. It is still very much a traditional city, where locals greet strangers with ‘Buenos días’ or ‘Buenas tardes.’ It is one of the loveliest places in Colombia, filled with history, museums, festivals and sightseeing opportunities. Don’t miss it.
Return to beginning of chapter
Information
Take a virtual tour of Villa de Leyva at www.expovilla.com or www.villadeleyva.net.
ATMs (Plaza Mayor, Calle 12) Several ATMs on the south side of the square.
Police ( 732 0236, 732 1412; Carrera 10 No 11-10)
Quinternet I & II (Carrera 9 No 11-77 and Carrera 9 No 11-96; per hr COP$1600; 10am-1pm & 3-9pm) Internet cafes.
Telecom ( 732 1040; Plaza Mayor, Carrera 9 No 12-36; 7am-10pm)
Tourist office (Oficina de Turismo; 732 0232; cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 13; 8am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Sun) Provides free maps, brochures and can book activities and tours. The Tourist Police has a small information kiosk outside the bus terminal.
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights
Villa de Leyva is a leisurely place made for wandering around charming cobblestone streets, listening to the sound of church bells and enjoying the lazy rhythm of days gone by. Small as it is, the town has six museums, most of which are in old colonial buildings. Villa de Leyva is also famous for its abundance of fossils from the Cretaceous and Mesozoic periods, when this area was underwater. Look closely and you’ll notice that fossils have been used as construction materials in floors, walls and pavements. For a marvelous bird’s-eye view of the town, hike up one of the many hills surrounding the village (Click here). And when you’re ready for a break, stroll into a local cafe for a tinto (black coffee) and sample the local treat, besos de novia (girlfriend’s kisses).
PLAZA MAYOR
At 120m by 120m, Plaza Mayor is one of the largest town squares in the Americas. It’s paved with massive cobblestones and surrounded by magnificent colonial structures and a charmingly simple parish church. The vast plaza is interrupted only by a small Mudejar fountain in its middle, which provided water to the village inhabitants for almost four centuries. Unlike most Colombian cities where the main squares have been named after historic heroes, the one in Villa de Leyva is traditionally and firmly called Plaza Mayor.
As you stroll about, pop into the Casa de Juan de Castellanos (Carrera 9 No 13-15), Casona La Guaca (Carrera 9 No 13-57) and Casa Quintero (cnr Carrera 9 & Calle 12), three meticulously restored colonial mansions just off the plaza that now house quaint cafes, restaurants and shops.
CASA MUSEO DE LUIS ALBERTO ACUñA
Featuring works by the painter, sculptor, writer and historian who was inspired by influences ranging from Muisca mythology to contemporary art, Casa Museo de Luis Alberto Acuña (Plaza Mayor; admission COP$3000; 9am-6pm) has been set up in the mansion where Acuña (1904–93) lived for the last 15 years of his life.
CASA MUSEO DE ANTONIO NARIñO
Antonio Nariño was known as the forefather of Colombia’s independence and Casa Museo de Antonio Nariño ( 732 0342; Carrera 9 No 10-25; admission COP$3000; 8am-noon & 2-5pm Thu-Tue) is the house where he lived until his death in 1823. Nariño was a fierce defender of human rights and is also revered for translating Thomas Paine’s Rights of Man into Spanish. The house has been converted into a museum containing colonial objects and memorabilia related to this great man.
CASA MUSEO DE ANTONIO RICAURTE
Antonio Ricaurte fought under Bolívar and is remembered for his act of self-sacrifice in the battle of San Mateo (near Caracas in Venezuela) in 1814. Defending an armory and closely encircled by the