Colombia (Lonely Planet, 5th Edition) - Jens Porup [84]
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SIERRA NEVADA DEL COCUY
Relatively unknown outside of Colombia, the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy is one of the most spectacular mountain ranges in South America. This gorgeous slice of heaven on Earth has some of Colombia’s most dramatic landscapes, from snowcapped mountains and raging waterfalls to icy glaciers and crystal-clear blue lakes.
It is the highest part of the Cordillera Oriental, the eastern part of the Colombian Andes formed by two parallel ranges. A chain of beautiful valleys is sandwiched in between. The Sierra Nevada del Cocuy contains 21 peaks, of which 15 are more than 5000m. The tallest peak, Ritacuba Blanco, reaches 5330m (17,483ft).
Because of its climate and topography, the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy ecosystem has a striking abundance of flora, representing some 700 species. It is especially noted for its frailejóns, many which are unique to the region. Fauna include spectacled bears, pumas, white-tailed deer and the famous Andean condor that is a symbol of Colombia. This area is also the ancestral home of the indigenous U’wa people, who still make their home in this harsh terrain.
In 1977, a large swath of this pristine land was set aside for the creation of Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy. With a massive 306,000 hectares, PNN El Cocuy is the fifth-largest national park in Colombia, stretching across the departments of Boyacá, Arauca and Casanare.
The mountains are quite compact, relatively easy to reach and ideal for trekking, though rather more suited to experienced hikers. The starting points for these hikes are the pretty villages of Güicán Click here and El Cocuy (below). The two rival towns have good food and lodging facilities and scenic beauty that even nonhikers will appreciate.
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EL COCUY
8 / pop 7610 / elev 2750m
Dramatically surrounded by soaring mountains, the pretty colonial village of El Cocuy is the most traveler-friendly entry point to PNN El Cocuy, with at least 10 hotels, several restaurants and a few bars. El Cocuy has preserved its colonial character; every building in town is painted white with sea green trim and topped by red Spanish tiled roofs. The center point of the pueblo is the Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de la Paz, the salmon-pink church that dominates Parque Principal, the town square. After dinner, residents congregate around the square to chat, play basketball and snack on kebabs and arepas from street vendors. The plaza also contains a diorama of the surrounding mountain range, but in terms of tourist attractions, there is little else to do apart from enjoy the surrounding natural beauty.
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Information
Banco Agrario de Colombia (cnr Carrera 4 & Calle 8) The only ATM in town.
Internet cafe (Carrera 6 No 6-42; per hr COP$1500; 8am-8pm).
Parque Nacional Natural (PNN) El Cocuy Headquarters ( 789 0359; cocuy@parquesnacionales.gov.co; Calle 8 No 4-74, 6am-noon & 1-5pm) All park visitors must report here to register their itineraries and pay the admission fee.
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Sleeping & Eating
There is a good selection of hotels in El Cocuy, all located within three blocks of the town square. Most restaurants are located inside hotels. In the evening, street vendors sell comida corriente (fast food) in the square.
Casa Vieja ( 789 0074, 313 876 8783; Carrera 6 No 7-78; r per person COP$8000) As the name suggests, this cheapie is located in an old colonial house. Owner and artist Roberto Arango has decorated the courtyard garden with his original paintings. The character of the building makes up for the barren rooms, all with shared baths.
Hotel Villa Real ( 789 0038; Calle 7 No 4-50; r per person COP$10,000) A pleasant hotel around the corner from the main square has basic rooms with shared baths