CompTIA A_ Certification All-In-One Exam Guide, Seventh Edition - Michael Meyers [84]
Cooling
Faster CPUs run hotter than slower ones. If you get a new CPU, you will almost certainly need a new CPU cooler to dissipate the heat generated by the more powerful processor. In addition, you may discover that your case fans are not sufficient, causing the CPU to overheat and the system to lock up. You can add improved cooling, but it might require a new case.
Performance
A faster CPU will make your computer run faster, but by how much? The results are often disappointing. As you go through this book, you will discover many other areas where upgrading might make a much stronger impact on your system’s performance.
Determining the Right CPU
So you go through all of the decision-making and decide to go for a new CPU. Perhaps you’re building a brand new system or maybe you’re ready to go for that CPU upgrade. The single most important bit of documentation is called the motherboard book (Figure 5-61). Every computer should come with this important book that contains all of the details about what CPUs you can use as well as any special considerations for installing a CPU. Usually in the first few pages, the motherboard book will tell you exactly which CPUs your system can handle (as shown in Figure 5-62).
Figure 5-61 Sample motherboard books
Figure 5-62 Allowed CPUs
If you don’t have a motherboard book, call the place where you bought the PC and ask for it. If they don’t have it, get online and find it—I’ll show you where to look in later chapters.
Your first concern is the socket. You can’t install an Athlon 64 X2 into a Pentium D’s Socket 775—it won’t fit! If your motherboard book lists the CPU you want to install, you’re ready to start shopping.
Buying a CPU
Buying a CPU is a tricky game because most stores will not accept returns unless the CPU is bad. If you’re not careful, you could get stuck with a useless CPU. Here are a few tricks.
CPUs come packaged two ways, as retail-boxed CPUs or OEM CPUs. Retail-boxed CPUs have two advantages. First, they are the genuine article. There are a surprising number of illegal CPUs on the market. Second, they come with a fan and heat sink that is rated to work with that CPU.
Most stores have an installation deal and will install a new CPU for very cheap. I take advantage of this sometimes, even though it may mean I don’t have my PC for a few days. Why does your humble author, the Alpha Geek, have others do work he can do himself? Well, that way I’m not out of luck if there is a problem. Heck, I can change my own oil in my car, but I let others do that, too.
If you buy an OEM CPU, you will need the right fan and heat-sink assembly. See “The Art of Cooling” section later in this chapter.
Preparing to Install
Once you’re comfortable that your new CPU will work with your motherboard, get back to that motherboard book and see if you must adjust any tiny jumpers or switches for your CPU. These jumpers might adjust the motherboard speed, the multiplier, or the voltage. Take your time, read the motherboard book, and set those jumpers or switches properly. Locate the fan power connector, usually called the CPU fan, as shown in Figure 5-63.
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NOTE Many motherboards have no jumpers or switches.
Most CPUs use some form of mounting bracket for the CPU cooler. Some of these brackets require mounting underneath the motherboard, which means removing the motherboard from the system case.
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CAUTION Before attempting to do anything inside the system unit, make sure you have adequate ESD protection. Make sure the power is off and the system is unplugged.
Figure 5-63 Fan connection
If you’re removing an old CPU, you’ll need to take off the old CPU cooler. Removing CPU coolers scares me more than any other physical act I do on a PC. Many (not all) CPU fans use a metal