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to the stove by lining a baking sheet with a couple layers of paper towels. Test to see if the oil is hot enough by sprinkling a bit of flour or a few bread crumbs into it. It should sizzle; if it doesn’t—WAIT. Once the oil is hot, add the pork, working in batches so you don’t crowd the pan. Cook the first side of the pork until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes; turn and brown the other side. When the pork is done, lay it on the paper towels to drain off the excess oil and sprinkle with salt. Then keep the pork in the oven while you cook the second batch.

FOR THE SALAD

1 Put the Pecorino, hazelnuts, and parsley in the food processor and pulse until coarsely chopped.

2 In a large bowl, combine the escarole, hazelnut mix, and some of the pickled red onions; dress this mixture with olive oil and some of the pickling liquid and toss to combine. To serve, place a pork chop on a serving plate and top with the lovely salad.

Mmmmm—Milanese my way!

It’s good to bread ahead! If you have the time, let the pork sit for about an hour to really set the breading, if you’re in a hurry—skip it.

SERVES: 4 • TIME: ABOUT 30 MINUTES

In Italy they don’t eat spaghetti and meatballs. Instead they have what they call polpettini, or little meatballs. And when they want something bigger, they make polpettone—meatloaf. I figured, if they make little ones and a big one, why not make a medium-size one and throw it on a bun? This size is just right, and if I could have a burger this good every time I wanted one, I’d be a happy, happy girl.

MISE EN PLACE

Extra virgin olive oil

2 onions, cut into ¼-inch dice

Kosher salt

2 cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped

½ pound ground beef

½ pound ground veal

½ pound ground pork

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped

½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano

¼ cup bread crumbs

1 large egg

4 large hamburger buns

4 slices Fontina cheese

Mayonnaise

2 cups baby arugula

1 large tomato, sliced

Pickled Red Onions or 1 red onion, thinly sliced

1 Coat a large sauté pan with olive oil, add the onions, and bring to medium heat. Season the onions with salt and cook until soft and aromatic, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from the heat and let the mixture cool.

2 In a large bowl, combine the cooled onion mixture with the beef, veal, pork, rosemary, Parmigiano, bread crumbs, egg, and 3 to 4 tablespoons of water. Mix well and season generously with salt.

3 Make a 1- to 2-inch tester patty. In a small sauté pan, heat a bit of oil and cook the patty. When it’s cool enough, taste it to make sure it’s delicious—if it’s not, reseason. When the tester tastes fabulous, form the meat mixture into four equal patties.

4 Preheat a grill or coat a large sauté pan with olive oil and bring it to medium-high heat. Cook the burgers for 4 to 5 minutes per side. Toast the buns on the grill or in the toaster. While the second side of the burger cooks, place a slice of cheese on top and let it melt.

5 Schmear each side of the bun lightly with mayonnaise, place a burger on each bottom half, garnish with the arugula, tomato, and onions (pickled or otherwise), top with the other half of the bun, and serve.

Burger-licious!

Rockin’ Porchetta with Fall Veggies

SERVES: 10 • TIME: ABOUT 4½ HOURS, MOSTLY UNATTENDED

In Tuscany, every town has a market day. This is when trucks carrying all kinds of delightful edibles pull into the center of town, open up their sides, and become little grocery stores on wheels. Of course my favorite truck was always the porchetta truck—who doesn’t love a truck that sells a delicious crispy pork product?

Traditionally, porchetta is a whole pig that’s been boned and cooked for hours, until the skin gets totally brown and crunchy and the meat becomes wonderfully tender. It’s most often seasoned with garlic, sage, and black pepper—and while pepper is not usually how I roll, it’s appropriate in this dish to keep the classic flavors intact. What is totally unique in my version is to cook the pork on a bed of autumn